A chilly evening in late November, it felt welcoming to step into the restaurant Kryp In, in the Old Town of Stockholm. (Kryp In is Swedish, approximately pronounced creep-in, but do not worry, it means “a small and cosy place”.) This was during my last visit to Stockholm and I had been recommended to go here by a new wine importer, Leif Jonsson. His brother in law, Kjell Tegström, runs the restaurant. The two of them also import organic and biodynamic wines to Sweden (www.kjeffes.se and our review of Kjeffe’s range). During dinner I had the opportunity to try some of their wines.
Restaurant Kryp In turned out to be a real find. The emphasis is on Swedish ingredients and Swedish specialties. The food is delicious, well prepared by Kjell, the chef. The staff is friendly, the atmosphere pleasant and calm (with less loud and noisy music than in many Stockholm restaurants).
As starter we had souvas carpaccio, and I have to admit that I didn’t know what it was (souvas that is). I was rescued by the English translation on the menu. It is smoked reindeer and it was served with bleak roe from Kalix (löjrom, a speciality from northern Sweden, as good as Russian caviar), horse radish and mustard crème (168 SEK). Interesting and delicious combination of flavours. The main course was fillet of cod served with yellow beetroots and mouth-watering mashed potatoes flavoured with Västerbotten cheese (another delicious speciality from northern Sweden). Perfectly cooked fish.
The desert was a true Swedish classic, warm cloudberries with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream (95 SEK). With this we had a Coteaux de Saumur 2011 from Domaine Bourdin and it turned out to be a magnificent combination. Coteaux de Saumur is a rarely seen appellation for sweet wines made from overripe grapes in the Loire Valley. The wine is full-bodied and smooth with a long finish that ends with apricot and saffron aromas.
With the starter we had another, rather unusual white wine appellation, namely a Pacherenc de Vic Bihl, a 2012 from Domaine Laffont Labranch. The red wine from the same region, Madiran, is better known. This dry white wine is made from gros manseng and petit manseng, local grapes that are found in various parts of the French Southwest. The owner and winemaker Christine Dupuy is both ambitious and environmentally conscious and place great emphasis on getting personality and character into the wine.
With the cod we had a red Beaujolais. Nothing unusual of course, to drink red wine with fish and a high quality Beaujolais is actually delicious with cod. The wine was Tres Tres Vieilles Vignes Beaujolais Village 2006, with lovely fruit, freshness and a great flavour intensity. The gamay grape at its best. The small wine producer called Très Très Vieilles Vignes (Very, Very Old Vines) makes, in cooperation with different winegrowers, wines from very old vines, always more than 75 years. (We have previously written on Tres Tres Vieilles Vignes.)
In conclusion, I definitely recommend a visit to Kryp In and I know that I will return there as soon as I am in Stockholm again.
Restaurang Kryp In, Prästgatan 17, Stockholm (Old Town), https://www.restaurangkrypin.se
