Wine brands – a curse or a blessing? | New Brief #247

Surveys show that young people who drink wine are no longer loyal to a particular brand. This is good; maybe they will be curious to try something new instead. And there is plenty of new in the world of wine. However, wine consumption is decreasing in many countries, and experts today advise wine producers to strengthen their brands to compete. But what exactly is a brand in the wine industry?

A brand is sometimes perceived as something negative by wine enthusiasts. They think of volume wines made by large wine companies and sold worldwide, such as Barefoot, Yellowtail, Mouton-Cadet, Foot of Africa, etc. But a brand can just as well be about quality wines. Champagne is a strong brand, perhaps the strongest of them all in the wine industry. A strong brand is something that many people recognise and associate with something positive. Brand building requires marketing, advertising campaigns, social media influencers, so a big budget is needed.

It is about having a name on the label that the consumer recognises. It could be the name of a well-known and appreciated producer, such as Torres, or a famous appellation or region, such as Pomerol, Rioja, Chianti, or Napa. In some cases, it can even be a whole country, like Georgia, which, thanks to its orange wines, is perceived as exciting and different (even though only a tiny part of the country’s wines is orange).

Small producers without an advertising budget benefit from advertising campaigns for the entire appellation. Côtes-du-Rhône, for example, makes big advertising investments in different countries with positive results. The small growers in Champagne often point out that they are grateful that the big champagne houses do an excellent job of spreading the word around the world.

A trademark can also be a grape variety linked to a region. A good example is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Being as reliant on a single grape variety as Marlborough can have drawbacks. Still, it has brought an increase in acreage and success in the export market that would hardly have been possible otherwise. Almost 80% of Marlborough is sauvignon blanc.

Recently, I met the pioneer Rudi Bauer in Central Otago in New Zealand on our wine tour there. He owns Quartz Reef, one of the top wineries in the area. As we discussed, I mentioned that we had encountered many creative wines with, for New Zealand, unusual grape varieties. He quickly pointed out that “we must not forget that it is thanks to sauvignon blanc that we are here”. The early success of New Zealand sauvignon blanc has undoubtedly contributed to the fame of all wines from the country and helped bringing the quality up to the level where it is today.

The large producers are needed so that the small ones can thrive. And small, unusual initiatives can thrive because other things are being done in large volumes. But the big ones also often need the small ones, to provide variety and increase the quality.

To become known for something special, e.g. a single grape, came up for discussion several times during our New Zealand tour in March. In Hawkes Bay, the winemaker, another New Zealand wine pioneer, Jenny Dobson, compared her region to Marlborough. Hawkes Bay was a wine region 100 years earlier than Marlborough. In 2000, both regions had just under 5,000 hectares. It is still 4,800 hectares in Hawkes Bay, but it has increased to 30,000 hectares in Marlborough. What is the difference? Hawkes Bay does not have a particular grape variety that is the big star. Excellent wines are made from chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot, pinot gris, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and other grapes. More wine enthusiasts know about Central Otago, with a world reputation for its pinot noir but with only half the vineyard surface of Hawkes Bay.

Another example: would the often rather discreet rosé wines from Provence have been so immensely popular worldwide without the two super celebrities Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, plus the hardly French-sounding Whispering Angel? Hardly.

Undoubtedly, it seems easier for a country or region to achieve fame if you specialise in a grape variety. Just think of Argentina with its malbec, Austria with its grüner veltliner, Uruguay with its tannat… Or if you have someone who can invest millions, such as Champagne and Provence rosé.

Actually, if you think about it, all wines are brands, even e.g. Romanée Conti and Château Pétrus. And also Frank Cornelissen and “natural wine”.

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The Opposite Side

We have just recently returned home from New Zealand. It is quite a special feeling to travel to the exact opposite side of the globe. But it is a long journey that is worth the trouble. Just like the other two long trips of the winter: to South Africa and to Chile-Argentina. They will come again for the winter of 2025. Read more about them below.

Wine tours

If you want to join us on this years great adventures to Bordeaux and Champagne, book your places now. You can hardly find a wine tour organiser with more inside knowledge. First time we were in Bordeaux was in 1986. We’ve written twelve wine books, including wine internationally award winning on Champagne. We travel in wine regions…… all the time.

For some very special experiences – once in a life-time wine tours – you can join us next winter on the extended Southern Hemisphere Tours: Chile-Argentina, South Africa and New Zealand.

More info on our wine tours here. “World’s Top Wine Tours“. Tours with the people who know wine and who have an unrivalled experience of wine and tours.

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Enjoy the Brief!

Britt & Per

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