BKWine Brief nr 246, February 2024

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Terroir or Not Terroir?

One word that stands out in all wine communication today is “terroir”. Wine drinkers claim to find it in the wine, and winemakers strive to express it in their work. All wine enthusiasts know roughly what that means. A regular wine drinker probably does not, or possibly just an inkling. You can appreciate a good wine without having a clue about the importance of terroir.

In any case, terroir is a vague concept. Not that it is not important. The soil, the climate, the grape, the local environment, as well as traditions and methods (everything usually included in “terroir”) create and shape the wine together with the winemaker in the cellar.

All wine comes either from a specific place or several different places, close or far from each other. You could say that “terroir feeling” means getting an impression of the wine’s origin. Reasonably, there will be more sense of terroir if all the grapes come from a limited contiguous plot than if you have blended grapes from, say, the entire Languedoc or Champagne region. However, that is not always true. What terroir means to the wine drinker is complex. What makes it even more complicated is that, in many cases, people use the word “terroir” as a synonym for “soil”. That is not strange; that is what the French word literally means.

I recently heard Jean-Louis Chave in the Northern Rhône (Hermitage and Saint Joseph) complain that some of his vines give a grape character to the wine. It may seem like a strange regret when growing beautiful syrah — but grape variety character is not what he wants. He wants a terroir character.

That is what most wine producers say. It is a trendy expression today – that the wine should “express its terroir”. We see it in every other advertising text, probably without the advertiser knowing what it means (a marketing abuse much like with the word “minerality”).

Terroir does not necessarily mean it is easier to know where the wine comes from. It can signify that the wine has character and personality. An expressive wine, as we sometimes say. Complex. It tastes more than its grape. It can be described as the opposite of an unpretentious wine with a “nice” taste that everyone can like.

However, this character and personality can depend on good, healthy vines, a successful growing season, a suitable grape variety in suitable soil, a reasonable yield, a skilled winemaker with a magical touch, ageing in oak, concrete or amphora, or ageing on the lees. And so on. A good wine is the result of a multitude of details, big and small. Never just one thing.

Perhaps we should sometimes rather avoid the word terroir. It means so many different things to different people in different contexts, so it easily becomes a word you use carelessly because you are too lazy to be more precise in your description. A vague and imprecise word can be more confusing than explanatory. It might be better to try to describe why we like the wine.

You do not automatically find a sense of terroir because all the grapes come from a small, limited plot. However, it depends on what you put into the word’s meaning. And the irony is that wine lovers are happy when we recognise the grape variety in a wine.

We have just recently returned from the first wine tour of the year, The Great South Africa Tour. It was a fabulous trip. It was actually unusually cool weather, only slightly warmer than a Swedish summer. Lovely. It’s really fun to have the privilege of showcasing this amazing wine country to new wine enthusiasts. There is an incredible variety of wines and a talent of a new generation of winemakers. What hasn’t caught up with the rest of the world, however, are the prices, but we can hope that will soon change. One of the major problems in the wine industry in South Africa is profitability. The world has yet to discover what quality can be found here. If you haven’t been to South Africa yet, maybe now is the time? Next tour will be in February 2025. You can see more about the South Africa wine tour in this Facebook group.

But now it’s soon off to New Zealand for our next wine tour, also a country that offers many surprises. Everyone is well aware of the brilliant sauvignon blanc wines from New Zealand. But it is a country with a great variety of grapes, syrah, fiano, cabernet, outstanding pinot noir, grenache, and so on. By the way, did you know that this is where bungee jumping was invented? We visit the bridge where they made the first jump. Anyone who wants to can still jump there… More on this soon.

Wine tours

If you want to join us on this years great adventures to Bordeaux and Champagne, book your places now. You can hardly find a wine tour organiser with more inside knowledge. First time we were in Bordeaux was in 1986. We’ve written twelve wine books, including wine internationally award winning on Champagne. We travel in wine regions…… all the time.

For some very special experiences – once in a life-time wine tours – you can join us next winter on the extended Southern Hemisphere Tours: Chile-Argentina, South Africa and New Zealand.

More info on our wine tours here. “World’s Top Wine Tours“. Tours with the people who know wine and who have an unrivalled experience of wine and tours.

Travel in wine regions with someone you trust.

Wine editors to the national encyclopedia, Forbes.com contributors, award-winning wine book authors, wine tour advisors to the UN and national wine organisations, wine judges … and, above all, passionate wine travellers.

Enjoy the Brief!

Britt & Per

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What’s on at BKWine Tours

BKWine is also one of the world’s leading wine tour operators. Here’s what we currently have on our scheduled wine tour program:

We also make custom designed wine tours.

We’re different than most other wine tour operators. We are people who know wine inside out, who travel constantly in wine regions, who write award winning books about wine. Who do this out of passion.

Our wine tours are different from others.

A typical year we organise more than 30 wine tours to destinations across the world. In Europe: France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and more. World-wide: South Africa, Chile, Argentina, New Zealand. Thanks to our Scandinavian background we have a separate offer for the Scandinavian market. These are sometimes offered in English and also available as custom made tours. For example, these destinations:

Read our books

We have written eleven wine books. They have won awards from the Gourmand Awards, The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) and others.

Unfortunately, only one of them has been translated to English; the others are (so far) only available in Swedish. This is the one that is available in English:

Here’s the full list of our books:

News from the World of Wine

Short briefs on what’s been happening in the world of wine recently and other interesting things.

Positive results: the vineyard is put in the shadow with solar panels

The French company Sun’Agri, a pioneer in ”agrivoltaism”, has just come out with an exciting report. Agrivoltaism involves installing solar panels on top of agricultural crops. It has proven to be interesting also for vineyards. Sun’Agri has been experimenting for a few years in the south of France. The new report shows that solar panels can increase yields quite substantially: 45% for grenache blanc, 25% for marselan, 40% for non-irrigated grenache noir and 10% for chardonnay.

The idea is to shade the vines while the panels produce energy. The panels are set up several meters above the vines and rotate to allow more light to reach them on overcast days. The panels protect the vines from the burning sun during heat waves. The result is lower alcohol content (around 1% lower), higher acidity and later harvest (7–9 days). All this is positive in view of climate change. Whether it is compatible with the rules of the appellations (e.g. not to affect the plant environment) is another question. Read more: sunagri

15 Ukrainian wineries at ProWein

In spite of “The Troubles”, fifteen Ukrainian wineries will be present at the upcoming Prowein on March 10-12. We have a particular interest in Ukraine. This is not only because the current war is important both for the country and for all other Western democracies but also for other, more personal reasons. We have been involved in the Wine Travel Awards event organised by the Ukrainian magazine Drinks+ since its inception (both as a jury member and as recipient of a “world’s best wine guide” award) and we have done a United Nations-sponsored series of seminars on wine tourism for Ukrainian winemakers.

We are therefore particularly happy to learn that fifteen wineries from Ukraine will be at Prowein. There will be wineries from several different regions: Kyiv, Mykolaiv, Odesa, Zakarpattia and Kherson. As you can see, some of these are very close to the war front. Visiting the Ukrainian stand at Prowein – 13H52 – will also be an opportunity to taste some very unusual grape varieties, such as telti-kuruk, sukholymansky, citron of magarach, and odesa black. The only one we have tasted (so far) is odesa black, which was very promising. There are 160 registered wineries on 30,000 hectares in Ukraine, so 10% (!) are present in Dusseldorf! Sadly (?), we are in New Zealand during Prowein but I hope that you will have the opportunity to meet them and taste the wines. More info: ukr

Inventive Oregon winery makes whiskey from smoke-damaged grapes

Fires in wine regions cause damage to vineyards in different ways. The ripe grapes in vineyards near the fire can be damaged by smoke, which can affect the taste of the wine and, in the worst case, make the wine undrinkable. Patricia Green Cellars in Oregon came up with a brilliant idea how to use the grapes that were damaged during the extensive fires in 2020.

Some grapes were only slightly damaged and could be used to make an acceptable pinot noir. But for the most part, there was not a chance to make sellable wine out of it. Instead, they started a collaboration with a distiller. Thousands of litres of wine were distilled into an excellent and full-bodied brandy. The winery began purchasing and distilling barley and rye from small family farms in Oregon. The result was many casks of whiskey. By adding the brandy, the alcohol level in the distillate was raised and texture and flavour were obtained. After a few years of ageing, Patricia Green Cellars has now started selling the estate’s first whiskey bottles under the name Patty Green Whiskey Distillers. With a smoky character, one would guess. Read more: patriciagreencellars

Almost 1500 new wine estates in France

In 2022, France saw the creation of 1,444 new wine estates, an increase of 3% compared to 2021. The winegrowers represent 10% of the 14,132 new agricultural estates started in 2022. These winegrowers operate an average of 10.9 hectares, and 50% are in individual legal form. 75% of winegrowers remain in business after six years (an increase compared to previously), compared to 77% for agriculture as a whole.

Languedoc-Roussillon has the highest number of new estates, perhaps not surprising since it is the largest wine region. 387 new enthusiasts settled here in 2022. Champagne gained 185 new producers, Bordeaux 77 (decrease), Rhône Valley 129, Beaujolais 54, Burgundy 105, Provence 56, Alsace 81, Jura 23 (increase), Loire 65, Southwest 52 and Savoie 8 new wineries. It is interesting to note that Champagne, with 34,000 hectares and generally very expensive land prices, had as many as 185 new wine producers. But you don’t need to buy new land to start making champagne. Maybe you have left a cooperative and already own land, or you purchase grapes or rent vineyards. Read more: vitisphere

Cork stoppers are getting more popular thanks to environmental merits

There are signs that the use of cork stoppers as a closure on wine bottles is increasing and that its new popularity is partly due to its strong sustainability credentials. In the UK, bulk wine importers are installing new bottling lines so that bottles can also be sealed with corks and not only screw caps.

The fact that the demand for cork is increasing is due, it is believed, to two things. Today, there are far fewer problems with cork-tainted wines thanks to cork manufacturers’ successes with new technology. Also, the natural cork is perceived as environmentally friendly. The total market for cork today is 13.2 billion units, of which Amorin, the largest cork producer in Portugal and the world, produces 6 billion. While the overall market for wine is not increasing, sales of cork and screw caps are increasing at the expense of plastic corks, which are in decline, says Amorim. BKWine has long argued the environmental properties of cork. Once the bark of a cork oak has been harvested, there is no waste. Everything can be used (and the tree still stands). The corks can be recycled and used for various products (not for wine again, though). The trees absorb carbon dioxide, and a cork oak that is harvested absorbs 3-5 times more than one that is not harvested. Read more: thedrinksbusiness

Read: Read more on cork in these cork articles on BKWine Magazine.

Is the declining wine consumption due to wine being challenging to understand?

This year, the German annual ProWein Business Report addresses the world’s declining wine consumption. There are many reasons why people drink less wine, such as health recommendations, the economy and, not least, the difficulty of understanding wine. The wine industry is fragmented like few other industries. The fact that there is a lot of wine is a strength but also a weakness.

“Other alcoholic beverages have a less elitist image and therefore reach particularly young consumers better,” the report points out as a reason why young people prefer to drink beer or cocktails over wine. It is unfortunate if wine, in the eyes of certain consumers, retains an elitist appearance. But in many ways, the wine industry has itself to blame. Many marketers, sommeliers, and indeed wine writers do their best to put wine on a pedestal and make wine and food pairing sound like rocket science. No wonder some prefer a Carlsberg. Read more: prowein

Unprofitable grape farms are disappearing in Australia

Several wine countries have the same problem: Grape growers are not paid enough for their grapes. The wine industry in many countries currently has several challenging issues on top of (and related to) reduced wine consumption. The grapes have never cost much in the large, warm Murray-Darling Basin, an area in the Australian interior known for simple, cheap wines. But now things have come to a head, and growers are loudly protesting. The structure of the wine industry prioritises those who make the wine, they say, and grape growing is no longer profitable for many. (In Australia, it is common that grape growing and wine production is done by different companies.) Murray-Darling supplies Australia with almost 70% of its grapes. The growers say prices remain at the same level as in the 1970s, even though costs have increased drastically. Read more: abc

We recommend: Lievland Vineyards from South Africa

A new producer from South Africa has been launched in Sweden but even if you do not live there, there’s is a good chance that you will be able to get hold of the wines from Lievland Vineyards. Lievland has been a wine-producing estate since 1865. Reportedly, oak-fermented chenin blanc was made here long before it became standard practice, and in the 1990s a highly regarded shiraz was made. Since 2017, Lievland has been owned by MAN Family Wines where one of the co-owners is José Condé who also runs the superb Stark-Condé estate in Stellenbosch with his wife Marie.

Man Family Wines was created by José and two friends and when MAN grew so much that they needed to expand the business, they fell head over heels for Lievland (which in Afrikaans means “love land”), which was however in great need of renovation. Marie and José took advantage of the covid years to renovate and build a new tasting room and restaurant. ”We originally purchased the (very run-down) property in 2017 with the intention of building offices and production facilities for MAN”, Marie tells us. “But we quickly realised the enormous potential of reviving the Lievland brand.”

Look out for their Old Vine Chenin blanc, the Bush Vine Pinotage, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and different blends. Read more: lievland

Travel: Come on a wine tour to South Africa with BKWine. 2025 tour soon to be launched.

Read: Read our interview with José Condé on BKWine Magazine, including a video from South Africa.

Features of the Month

Articles and features published on BKWine Magazine and on our wine travel blog and (occasionally) photography blog in the last month.

French gastronomic specialities excel | Per on Forbes

Travelling on a wine tour in France is a perfect opportunity to enjoy fantastic meals paired with excellent wines. French gastronomy is one of the world’s best (it is, of course, a matter of opinion and taste). At the end of the year—over Christmas and New Year, that we passed a while back—the French seem to be trying to catch up on all the good things that they have missed on the table during the past year. French Christmas and New Year gastronomy is not really very seasonal or specific. It is more a celebration of everything good on a dinner table. Here’s a little review of some of the French food specialities you will see in France over Christmas and New Year – but also all the rest of the year. For example, on a wine tour.

Read more in Per’s article on BKWine’s Travel Blog, originally published on Forbes: A celebration of French gastronomy | Per on Forbes.

Travel: Come on a wine tour in France with BKWine.

Are Napa wine prices and tasting fees going through the roof? | Per on Forbes

The average tasting room tasting fee in Napa is $128 for a “reserve tasting” and $81 for a “standard tasting”. The average suggested retail price of a bottle of Napa wine is $108. These astonishing numbers come from the 2023 Direct to Consumer Wine Survey by the Silicon Valley Bank. They position Napa as far more expensive to visit and to drink than any other wine region in the USA, and probably in the rest of the world too. Is Napa Valley pricing itself out of the market for wine and for wine tourism or are these fees long-term sustainable?

Read more in Per’s article on the BKWine Travel Blog, originally published on Forbes: Is Napa Valley pricing itself out of the market for wine tourism and for wine? | Per on Forbes.

Springfontein Wines in Walker Bay, a winery on South Africa’s coast with unusual and exciting wines | Per on Forbes

Springfontein Wines is, in some ways, very similar to many other small wineries in South Africa, and in other ways, it is very different. What it shares with many other small entrepreneurial wineries in the country is that they make excellent wines that often are astounding value for money. What is different from others then? Well, it’s essentially all the rest of the story: the people, the wines, the place. If you want to go visit them, you really have to make an effort; they’re not in a famous region and at the end of a very bumpy road. But it is worth making the effort.

Read more in Per’s article on BKWine Magazine, originally published on Forbes: Springfontein Wines, surprising and extraordinary South African | Per on Forbes.

Travel: Come on a wine tour to South Africa with BKWine. 2025 tour soon to be launched.

High altitude wines of high quality from Oldenburg Vineyards in Stellenbosch | Per on Forbes

Sometimes the best vineyards are hidden away on the smallest roads. That’s certainly the case for Oldenburg Vineyards. I can’t claim to be competent to pronounce it THE best, but it is certainly up there among the top. It is hidden away in a really difficult-to-find place. “Top” is also something you can say about their vineyards, some of the highest in Stellenbosch. They make a wide range of wines – a sign of an winemaker keen on experimenting – all worth exploring. Come with us on this trip to Oldenburg Vineyards in the Banghoek Valley in Stellenbosch.

Read more in Per’s article on BKWine Magazine, originally published on Forbes: Hidden high up in the Stellenbosch mountains is a gem, Oldenburg Vineyards | Per on Forbes.

Travel: Come on a wine tour to South Africa with BKWine. 2025 tour soon to be launched.

A family with a long and proud tradition of cabernet and pinotage at Kaapzicht Wine Estate in Stellenbosch | Per on Forbes

The Steytler family has owned Kaapzicht Wine Estate for four generations. Today, it is run by Dani Steytler Jr and his wife Carin. They make a wide range of wines from 21 different grape varieties. I met Danie Jr in the cellar in the middle of harvest and talked to him about two of the exciting projects that he is involved in. First, the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective. Secondly, one of his favourite grapes, pinotage and why it is a grape that more people should discover.

Read more in Per’s article on BKWine Magazine, originally published on Forbes: Kaapzicht, a pinotage pioneer and cabernet champion in Stellenbosch | Per on Forbes.

Travel: Come on a wine tour to South Africa with BKWine. 2025 tour soon to be launched.

Stark-Condé Wines, a quality producer hidden away in Jonkershoek Valley in Stellenbosch | Per on Forbes

Stark-Condé Wines is only a stone’s throw from the town centre of Stellenbosch, but when you arrive there, you feel like you’re in another world. Remote, quiet, calm. In the Jonkershoek Valley. Well, it’s not always so quiet because they have a very popular restaurant where you can taste their wines. It’s a popular venue, which one can understand. They make excellent wines, a very exciting Stellenbosch winery. They are most famous for their cabernet sauvignon, like many wineries in Stellenbosch. But they make a wide range of wines, pinot noir, an exciting white “field blend”, syrah, petit sirah… A little while back, I sat down and talked with the owner, José Condé.

Read more in Per’s article on BKWine Magazine, originally published on Forbes: Both classic and unusual, Stark-Condé Wines in Stellenbosch, South Africa | Per on Forbes.

Travel: Come on a wine tour to South Africa with BKWine. 2025 tour soon to be launched.

Wine Tours

Details on our current and future wine tours. Book a wine tour with the “World’s Top Wine Tour Operator” today (or when you feel like travelling to wine country).

Treat yourself to an unforgettable experience in the beautiful wine-lands together with some of the most knowledgeable wine people around. Book now!

Champagne: tradition, history but with a modern image | wine tour

The world is drinking sparkling wines like never before. This means that Champagne is getting more and more competitors. Will Champagne retain its special position as the world’s premier bubbly? We think so. With the prestige and the consistently high quality that you find in Champagne, there are currently no others that come close. Champagne has accumulated tradition and history over many hundreds of years. Today, new, and modern technology is adopted to meet the climate challenges. Join us behind the scenes and learn all the secrets of this fantastic sparkling wine that turns any occasion into a celebration.

Join us on a fantastic wine tour to Champagne.

And also: We have written an internationally award-winning book on Champagne, so you can hardly get a better guide to the region.

Champagne and Bordeaux, prestigious sparkling, and red wines | wine tour

On this 9-day tour we combine the two prestigious regions Champagne and Bordeaux. We spend 4 nights in each region and you will taste some of the best sparkling and best red wines in France. Together, we will take the fast train between the regions. This is a busy time in the vineyards and the cellars which makes it even more interesting for us. In Champagne you will see some of the big houses but also smaller prestige producers, focusing on their specific style of champagne. In Bordeaux we will visit mainly Medoc, Saint Emilion and Graves/Pessac-Léognan. Our lunches will be top-quality meals at the chateaux with matching wines.

PS: We have written an internationally award-winning book about Champagne, and also one on Bordeaux. And ten other wine books. Can you think of any other wine tour operator with that in the baggage?

Bordeaux : Prestige châteaux and gourmet lunches | wine tour

The city of Bordeaux on the Garonne River is one of the most beautiful in France. Here we stay for four nights while exploring the different parts of the Bordeaux wine region. The tour offers fantastic gourmet lunches and prestigious wines. We will visit both grand cru chateaux and smaller family estates for a more personal experience. Bordeaux is prestige and glamour but also hard-working wine farmers, just like in all other wine regions. We also give you an insight into how they prepare for future challenges, for example international markets and climate change, in France’s most famous wine region. There is so much exciting to discover here.

Join us on a fantastic wine tour to Bordeaux.

  • Bordeaux, 29 September – 3 October, 2024

PS: We have written an award-winning book on Bordeaux, and have been travelling there since 1986. Can you find a better guide and tour operator?

Chile and Argentina, wine countries on each side of the Andes | South America wine tour

The mighty Andes Mountain range plays an important role on our wine tour to South America’s two most important wine countries. We spend the first half of the tour in Argentina. Then we cross the Andes by bus, a fantastic journey that offers breathtaking scenery. The border with Chile is at an altitude of 3,000 meters (9,800 feet).

The wine tour to Argentina and Chile shows two different wine cultures and two different styles of wine. Or actually, several different styles. The variation in both countries is today greater than ever. Malbec is indeed dominant in Argentina’s largest wine region, Mendoza, but malbec is different depending on where the grapes have grown. Chile has warm and cool climates, and the grape varieties are planted where they thrive best. After a couple of days in Buenos Aires, we fly to the city of Mendoza, located in the middle of the wine region of the same name. We are now close to the mountains, towering over the city. Exciting vineyard visits and fantastic barbecue lunches (asado, as they say here) await us. We start the Chilean part of the tour on the Pacific coast and then go inland to one of the most famous red wine regions, Colchagua. A dip in the pool feels perfect when we return to the hotel in the afternoons, and, of course, the pisco sour is the country’s most famous aperitif. We end the tour in Chile’s capital, Santiago de Chile.

Join us for a great wine, nature, and culture experience on the wine tour in Argentina and Chile.

Discover the wine countries of Chile and Argentina.

More inspiration: You can get an even better feeling for what you will experience on this tour if you visit the latest tour’s own Facebook group. Lots of pictures and videos from the tour (join the group and you’ll get an update when we post new contents): The wine tour to Chile and Argentina 2023.

South Africa, top quality wine in beautiful surroundings | wine tour

On the tour to South Africa, you will experience the beautiful and diverse wine landscape up close. We go from Cape Town to Elgin and Hermanus down on the South Coast and from there over the mountains to picturesque Franschhoek and on to the less populated and wild Swartland and Tulbagh. We end the tour in the famous regions of Stellenbosch and Constantia. You will experience almost all of the Vinous South Africa. These different wine regions show us the various wine styles in South Africa. Our visits will be to exciting and ambitious winegrowers, and we can promise you many interesting discussions and wine tastings. The food in South Africa is delicious. We eat most of our lunches at the vineyards, and you will no doubt get to taste the famous samosa, Malay curry and melktart. The wine is the tour’s focus, of course, but we don’t forget certain “must dos”, such as Table Mountain and the Cape of Good Hope. The sweet wines from Constantia near Cape Town were world famous already in the 18th century. Today, the quality of South African wines is at its peak again.

Discover South Africa, the fantastic wine country, with us on this fabulous wine tour.

Book now!

More inspiration: You can get an even better feeling for what you will experience on this tour if you visit the latest tour’s own Facebook group. Lots of pictures and videos from the tour (join the group and you’ll get an update when we post new contents): The wine tour to South Africa 2024.

New Zealand, an unforgettable wine country | wine tour

Our tour to New Zealand is an unforgettable experience that not only offers good wines and exciting wine visits but also gives an insight into the country’s culture. In addition, we can enjoy the fantastic scenery every day. The country on the other side of the Globe consists of two main islands, the North Island and the South Island; we will visit both. A three-hour ferry ride takes us between the islands. Maybe, maybe we’ll spot a dolphin.

Auckland is the big city on the North Island. Here we begin our journey that does not end until we get all the way down to the bustling town of Queenstown on the South Island. In between, we have visited the Marlborough and Wairarapa wine regions and also Martinborough, Hawke’s Bay, Waiheke Island and Central Otago. The country has a favourable climate for viticulture. Great differences exist in the wine styles between the various regions. We make a stop in the beautiful capital Wellington; we will get to know the Maori culture and enjoy the glaciers and the sulphurous geysers. And, of course, we will taste many great wines during our visits to the producers.

Come with us to New Zealand for a wine adventure!

A great wine, nature and culture experience on the New Zealand wine tour.

Book now!

More inspiration: You can get an even better feeling for what you will experience on this tour if you visit the latest tour’s own Facebook group. Lots of pictures and videos from the tour (join the group and you’ll get an update when we post new contents): The wine tour to New Zealand 2020.

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