–– The newsletter on wine and wine travel ––
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Chasing the news
Novelties are exciting. This is true not least in our country of birth, Sweden. Every month new wines are launched in the state monopoly shops. And every month wine journalists all over the country write about these wines, giving the monopoly free publicity (which I presume, in the name of public health, it would have preferred to avoid?).
Today, consumers are looking for innovation in wine as much as in other products, says wine mogul Bernard Magrez. You must, he says, evoke emotions with storytelling and an attractive label. Magrez makes wine all over the world, not least in Bordeaux where he owns several well-known chateaux.
That the label is important is a well-known fact. To use storytelling to help sell your wines has become fashionable in recent times (what would Jacob’s Creek be without Jacob?).
But is it true that customers want innovation? Aren’t old traditions ruling the world of wine?
It is probably fair to say that wine enthusiasts are attracted to the unusual and the new. Wine growers who are different more easily get the attention of wine journalists. What is there to write about if everything is as it has always been?
Now, wine producers are an innovative people so they often have something new up their sleeve. Not everyone can afford a designed multi-million-dollar new wine cellar, which Bernard Magrez undeniably can. But put an amphora in a corner (an ironic form of “news”) or replace some stainless-steel tanks with concrete tanks and the journalist gets his story.
Pretty much every producer has something new to show. It can be a homemade compost (difficult to photograph though!), an insect hotel, a new pump (the peristaltic Rolls of pumps!), a new press. It can be a new wine without added sulphur. Or a new grape variety.
In fact, all of this is part of the story surrounding the wine. The storytelling comes naturally when producers talk about their novelties. So now, only the enticing label remains.
If only it were that easy to sell wine.
This month there is a lot to read in the Brief. We have several articles on grape varieties, one on the hot topic of pesticides in wine (debated and misunderstood), a book review of an unusual wine book and much more.
We hope you enjoy reading them.
We also hope that everyone’s desire to travel will soon return. Or more correctly, that it will soon be possible to travel. The desire to travel is already there, isn’t it?
This autumn we have tours to Bordeaux and Champagne, the two most famous wine regions of France. You can pick one of them and we also offer the two regions as a combined tour for 9 days.
We also have three fantastic trips to the southern hemisphere to cheer up the winter months of 2022: South Africa, New Zealand and Chile-Argentina.
When it’s time to travel to the vineyards again, travel with BKWine, one of the world’s most experienced and knowledgeable wine tour operators.
More info about all this in the Brief.
Enjoy the Brief!
Britt & Per
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What’s on at BKWine Tours
BKWine is also one of the world’s leading wine tour operators. Here’s what we currently have on our scheduled wine tour program:
- Champagne and Bordeaux, September 23 – October 1 2021
- Champagne, September 23-27, 2021
- Bordeaux, September 27 – October 1, 2021
- Chile-Argentina, January 17-30, 2022
- South Africa, February 9-18, 2022
- New Zealand, March 10-25, 2022
We also make custom designed wine tours.
We’re different than most other wine tour operators. We are people who know wine inside out, who travel constantly in wine regions, who write award winning books about wine. Who do this out of passion. Our tours are different from others. More in wine tours: BKWineTours.com.
Read our booksWe have written several wine books, ten at the last count. Unfortunately, only one of them has been translated to English; the others are (so far) only available in Swedish. This is the one that is available in English: All our books are on wine, but on different subjects: wines of the Languedoc, wine growing and wine making, the wines of France, Tuscany, Bordeaux, Piedmont, Burgundy, Champagne. Several have won prestigious prizes and awards from Gourmand International, OIV and others. Read more on our wine books. |
News from the world of wineWhat’s been happening in the world of wine recently. |
Chenin blanc in South Africa, valued instead of being ripped up
The oldest remaining chenin vines were planted in Stellenbosch between 1905 and 1920. Eben Sadie makes a wine called “Mev Kirsten”from these grapes. The second oldest vineyard was planted at the Kaapzicht Estate in Stellenbosch in 1947 by the current winemaker Danie Steytler’s great-grandfather. Danie makes a wine called “1947” from these old vines. Initially, the vineyard was six hectares, but only one hectare remains. The rest Danie ripped up before he realised their value. The first Kaapzicht Wooded Chenin Blanc Reserve from the old vineyard was released in 2009. Unforunately, it did not sell very well, Danie told us. What was wrong? The price! He raised the price, and then it sold out quickly. Read more chenin Travel: Come on a wine tour to South Africa with BKWine. |
South Africa’s acreage of chenin blanc is no longer declining as fast as before. There is hope that they will keep what is left of this fantastic grape and focus on its quality potential. Chenin blanc probably came to South Africa as early as 1655 with Jan van Riebeeck. At first, however, they called it steen. It was not until 1963 that a professor at the University of Stellenbosch discovered that steen was, in fact, chenin blanc. Chenin’s status in South Africa has improved significantly in the last decade.
Eco-friendly packaging: are we ready for cardboard and linen wine bottles?
Figuring out how to reduce the weight of wine packaging keeps many researchers busy. Maybe the future will be bottles made of linen and paper. The French company Green Gen Technologies is working on a project for a bottle made of braided linen and natural resins. The bottle weighs 190 grams and is very robust. It is covered on the inside with plastic foil. Frugal Pac, a British company, makes a bottle of recycled paper. It weighs 83 grams, is lined on the inside with plastic and has a carbon footprint that is six times lower than a glass bottle. A standard glass bottle weighs 450-650 grams. Read more mon-viti |
In 2020, the demand for wines in bag-in-box increased in several European countries. A survey conducted by Smurfit Kappa, a BiB manufacturer, and Wine Intelligence shows a large increase in BiB wines in France and the UK in the last six months. Wine in cans is also beginning to show up on the shelves in several countries.
Can the vineyards of the south of France do without irrigation?
In the south of France, vines suffer more and more from recurring droughts during the summer. Access to water is becoming an increasingly important issue. The drought is beginning to affect the yields too much. The older vines survive, but it can be catastrophic for the younger ones. Maybe the first step will be to change the rules for irrigation of appellation wines, which, according to the producers, are not adapted to climate change. At present, irrigation of AOP vineyards in France is prohibited after the 1st of May, although exceptions can be made after a rather time-consuming application. Important alternatives to irrigation are to find grape varieties and rootstocks that are resistant to drought. Read more: vitisphere |
Water is vital for the vine. It should come in reasonable quantities. Whether it then comes naturally from above in the form of rain or from an irrigation system does not matter for the wine’s quality. (And that old adage that irrigation is forbidden in vineyards in France or other European countries is not true.) But it is, of course, essential that the water is provided sustainably. Water is an important issue in the sustainability debate.
Penfolds is expanding across the globe, from Champagne to California
Penfold’s newest venture is in California, and the first wines in the California Collection are expected to be launched in March. There will be four wines from the 2018 vintage from vineyards in Napa, Sonoma and Paso Robles. The prices range from $50 to $700. Here, too, chief winemaker Peter Gago has inserted an Australian touch, even if it was not planned from the beginning (or was it?). When they did the blending, it turned out that a splash of Australian cabernet did the trick. So, the two most expensive wines, Bin 149 and Quantum Bin 98, contain almost 15% of Australian wine. Read more about Penfolds’ California adventure here winespectator |
Penfolds makes wine all over Australia. Now they are expanding their horizons overseas. For a few years now, they have been collaborating with Champagne Thiénot. The first joint champagne, a vintage 2012, was released in 2019, and Penfolds put an Australian touch on it. The dosage had been stored in oak barrels that Penfolds previously had used for their prestige chardonnay, Yattarna.
China radically reduced its wine imports in 2020
China imported most wine from Australia, with France in second place, Chile in third and Spain in fourth place. Given the import duties that China imposed on Australian wines in November 2020, the list will probably look different for 2021. Read more: oemv |
In 2017, China imported 751 million litres of wine, a record figure for the country. In 2020, the volume was down to just over 430 million litres, a decrease of 43%. The pandemic has hit the wine regions that are investing in exports to China hard. All wine categories registered a very strong decline. Among the countries that export to China, only Argentina survived unscathed and even increased its exports of cheap bulk wine to China. But it is bottled wines that are important to China. Bottled still wines represented more than 70% of the volume and 90% of the total value.
What about pesticides in wine?
This did not prevent “Alerte aux Toxiques” from launching a dramatic report and depicting the result and the wines in a bad light, for which they have now been sued by the Bordeaux producers’ association CIVB and ordered by a court to pay damages. “The problem is,” says Matthieu Dubernet, “that thanks to continuous advances in analytical tools, infinitely small levels can be detected today. When should one refrain from interpreting an analytical result concerning concentrations so low that they no longer matter?” Experts are working on deciding where this threshold should be. In other words, the analysis technology is today so advanced so that one can be virtually certain to always find some residues, even if they are infinitesimally small and irrelevant. Today, the same levels (MRLs) apply for wine as for grapes. It is sometimes said (not least by radical enthusiasts for natural wine) that “there are no MRLs for wine”, but that is not correct. (A bit like the same people sometimes claim that “it is forbidden with a declaration of contents on wine”, which is also not true.) |
Are there pesticide residues in wine? That’s become a hot topic in some media recently. We spoke with Matthieu Dubernet from
FeaturesArticles and features published on BKWine Magazine and on our wine travel blog and photography blog in the last month. |
Riesling, one of the world’s top grapes, but a challenge for the consumer | Grape Profile | Britt on Forbes
Read more in Britt’s article on BKWine Magazine, originally published on Forbes: Riesling, one of the world’s top grapes, but a challenge for the consumer | Grape Profile |
Riesling is a magnificent grape but a difficult one. For its many devoted admirers, it is the foremost white wine grape in the world. Riesling is one of the most prestigious grapes, but it is still something of a niche variety. This is because it is a cool climate grape, limiting the number of countries it grows in. But it is perhaps even more because it is unpredictable; riesling is often a little bit sweet, or at least not completely dry, and it’s hard to know when. Here’s all you need to know to familiarise yourself with this wonderful grape.
5 wines made from tempranillo to taste
Read more in Britt’s article on BKWine Magazine: Learn the taste of tempranillo, the great Spanish grape. |
Tempranillo is one of the world’s most planted grapes. We associate it with Spain, where most of the plantings are (~190,000 hectares), and above all with Rioja. But it is grown in several regions in Spain and also in Portugal. Also, about ten countries have small surfaces of tempranillo. It is a grape with many synonyms. In Portugal for instance, it is used in port wines and Douro wines under the name of tinta roriz.
“The Mythology of Wine” by Arthur George, a book review
Read more in Britt’s article on BKWine Magazine: “The Mythology of Wine” by Arthur George, a book review. |
Was it, in fact, a grape and not an apple that Adam and Eve ate in Paradise? It is worth thinking about. At least that is the opinion of Arthur George, historian and winemaker. In the conveniently small book “The Mythology of Wine” he guides us through the mythology of wine, from the beginning around 8000 years ago and onwards in time. Wine has been more important to mankind than one might think.
Champagne Domaine Vincey, a new independent grower in Côte des Blancs with a twist | Britt on Forbes
Read more in Britt’s article on BKWine Magazine, originally published on Forbes: Champagne Domaine Vincey, a new independent grower in Côte des Blancs with a twist | Britt on Forbes. |
Can a small grower compete with big champagne houses? Yes, they can. First they must, of course, make good wine. And then they “only” have to find the right customers. Which, of course, is one of the challenges facing Quentin Vincey and Marine Zabarino, a young couple that recently released their first champagnes, from the 2014 vintage. They aim to make around 10,000 bottles, a drop in the champagne ocean, but a very delicious drop. Meet the newest champagne superstars in the making.
Wanted: More red and white wine from Provence | Britt on Forbes
Read more in Britt’s article on BKWine Magazine, originally published on Forbes: Wanted: More red and white wine from Provence | Britt on Forbes. |
Provence is beautiful, sunny and colourful. The Mediterranean is blue, the mimosa is yellow, the lavender is purple. And the wines are pink. Yes, but not all of them. The success in recent years of rosé wines has not completely suppressed the excellent red and white wines that Provence is also known for. We take a closer look at the wine regions of Provence and recommend some great wines.
Wine ToursSome information on our current and future wine tours. Book a wine tour with the “world’s top wine tour operator” today (or when you feel like travelling to wine country). |
Champagne, a sparkling wines for all occasions | wine tour
We will enjoy superb Champagne-lunches, some of them at Champagne-houses, other at excellent restaurants. We will see the big houses’ famous cellars and talk about organic and biodynamic farming with small growers. Hope you will join us! Wine tour to Champagne, September 23-27, 2021 We also offer a combined Champagne and Bordeaux wine tour. See more on this in a separate note. Book your tour to now! |
A wine producer in Champagne will tell you that you can drink Champagne any day of the week. And it doesn’t have to be to celebrate something. You can open a bottle of Champagne just because you want to have an excellent wine with your dinner. Or a glass for the aperitif. Champagne is not the only sparkling wine in the world, but it is special. It comes from a cooler place than most other sparkling wines. This gives a fresh acidity to the wines which is exactly what you want to have in a sparkling wine. If you have ever wondered why Champagne is special or about how they make Champagne, this is the tour for you. But even if you know all that, this is still a tour for you. There will always be secrets that the champagne producers can tell you.
Bordeaux, world-famous but still many hidden gems to discover | wine tour
Bordeaux is close to the Atlantic Ocean, but you never see the Ocean from the vineyards. It does influence the wines, though. In Bordeaux, they say that the wines’ balance comes from being close to the Ocean and the big rivers Garonne and Dordogne. It seldom gets too hot in the summer or too cold in the winter. Perfect levels of acidity and tannins make Bordeaux wines ideal for ageing, but it is not a requirement. You can enjoy them early as well. Discover this magnificent region with us. Wine tour to Bordeaux, September 27 – October 1 We also offer a combined Bordeaux and Champagne wine tour. See more on this in a separate note. Book your tour to now! |
If you must pick only one wine region to visit in France, Bordeaux would be a good choice. It is world-famous, but there are still a lot of things people don’t know about Bordeaux. The famous Grand Cru Classé chateaux are stunning but to see also the smaller, less famous estates adds to the Bordeaux experience.
Champagne and Bordeaux combined: the two most famous French wine regions| wine tour
In Champagne we will learn the process of making Champagne and all the rules that surround the production. We will see stunning wine cellars. We will visit both houses, famous and very important for the region, but also small independent growers. Organic viticulture is gaining ground in Champagne and we will have the opportunity to discuss this issue. Our unforgettable lunches will be 100 % Champagne of course. We cross the country by high-speed train and arrive in Bordeaux in the south west of France. Maybe the harvest is underway or has just finished. There will be a lot of activities at the chateaux. We will visit some of the big and famous in Médoc and Graves and a few smaller family chateaux in Saint Emilion. You will enjoy the gastronomic lunches at the chateaux, in a private dining room or maybe even in the garden. Join us and discover two unique and classic French wine regions. Wine tour to Champagne and Bordeaux, September 23 – October 1, 2021. Book your tour to now! |
Instead of choosing whether to go to Bordeaux or Champagne, why not go to both of them? We now offer a tour that combines these two regions during a fabulous 9-day tour. We will stay four nights in Reims, the capital of Champagne, and 4 nights in the city of Bordeaux, maybe the most beautiful city in the whole of France.
Wine tour in Argentina and Chile: wine and gastronomy, the majestic Andes, Valparaiso, Mendoza and Colchagua.
Chile is today an exciting wine country. Both small and large producers are looking for individuality and personality in their wines. We visit the new, cool-climate districts out on the Pacific coast, we take a walk in the mythical port city of Valparaiso, and we go to the classic wine regions of Maipo and Colchagua. We start our tour in Buenos Aires and end in the Chilean capital, Santiago. Wine tour to Chile-Argentina, January 17-30, 2022. Book your tour to South America now! |
The vineyards of Argentina and Chile are very close to each other, but the wines are very different. We spend a week in each country. We will get to know the wines, the gastronomy and the people behind the wines. Argentina’s wines come mainly from Mendoza. The wines here are powerful but also elegant. With vineyards at high altitudes, the producers get acidity and freshness in their wines. They are the perfect companions for the famous Argentinian steak. Our lunches with the producers are often an asado outdoors. These lunches, with food and wine and good company, are some of the highlights of the tour.
Creative winemakers, grape diversity, gastronomic highlights, wine trip to South Africa
Discovering wine in their country of origin is a special feeling. And you will find so much more variety than in your home country. South Africa has over 100 different grape varieties planted, and many producers are eager to experiment. We will meet some of these winemakers. South Africa has great potential for making wines with personality. Both consumers and producers realize this now. Join us on this tour, and we can promise you fantastic tastings and gastronomic highlights. South Africa is worth going to on a wine tour. Wine tour to South Africa, 9-18 February 2022. Book your tour to South Africa now! |
Our wine tour in South Africa begins in Cape Town, a city that has been named the most beautiful in the world several times. The view from the famous Table Mountain beats most views in the world. From Cape Town, we continue towards the south coast to Elgin and Walker Bay, regions that have become famous for pinot noir and other cool-climate grapes. Picturesque Franschhoek is next in line, then we go further north, to Swartland, known for its creative wine growers. We end our tour in classic Stellenbosch with its well-preserved Cape Dutch houses from the 17th century and well-known wine estates.
Wine and gastronomy, nature and culture in the newest of the New World countries, the wine tour to New Zealand
We start our tour in Auckland, the country’s largest city, and end in charming Queenstown in Central Otago. Wine has the leading role, but we will also enjoy nature and culture. We make a detour to the magnificent Mount Cook. We will look at seals, eat lobster and green mussels and of course the famous lamb. A journey that is an adventure. Wine tour to New Zealand, March 10-25, 2022. Book your tour to New Zealand now! |
New Zealand still has an adventurous pioneering spirit. It’s easy to imagine what it was like during the gold rush in Central Otago 170 years ago. But now it’s about wine instead. This new wine country has quickly become famous. You will understand why when you visit: talented wine producers and a climate that provides well-balanced wines. No wonder they are successful.
