The Drink Business had a fat headline the other day: “Natural wines can be aged for 50 years.” Said by Isabelle Legeron, a French wine expert and a big advocate for this type of wines. 50 years, that’s fantastic.
Most “normal” wines cannot be aged that long. So if you want to make wine for long ageing, just don’t pour sulphur in the wine…
But joking aside, few wines can be drunk with pleasure after 50 years. In fact, most wines should be drunk within, say, five years. But we also sometimes notice that some relatively simple wines that have been “forgotten” in our cellar evolve unexpectedly well. The other day, for example, we had a white Beaujolais from 1999, purchased for 65 FFr (~10 euro) and it tasted like the best Meursault.
So yes, you can sometimes – perhaps even often – get happy surprises.
On the other hand, there is an exaggerated reverence in the wine world for “age”. Often it is as if some wine enthusiasts think that age in itself has value. Some say that a wine had to be aged, or must have the capacity to be aged, for it to be considered as a great wine. That is preposterous.
I remember that I once saw a curious tasting protocol used to evaluate and score wines. One of the parameters for giving points was to assess the wine’s aging potential. A wine that was estimated to need 15 years before becoming pleasurable got a high score. Was it already good as young it got less points.
Then you have fallen into the trap to appreciate wine for what it says on the label instead of appreciating what is inside the bottle. In fact, age in itself has no value.
Of course, some wines need to be aged in order to develop more character. Then there is good reason to cellar them. But the wine is not better – by definition – just because it needs age to mature.
If you age wine you also need to be aware that the wine can significantly change character. Many “inexperienced” wine lovers would perhaps not appreciate an old wine. The taste is too different from what one is used to. It may well be that this is the reason for many a bottle having been poured out in the sink as “too old” and undrinkable. No, they were not too old, just different and naturally aged.
Often travellers on our wine tours ask the winemaker how long he thinks his wine should be aged. It happens not infrequently that they then get a question in reply: “Do you think the wine is delicious to drink now?” With the subsequent comment: “It you think it’s good now, drink it now!”
A good principle really.
Finally: Take a look at the autumn wine tours: Bordeaux (only a few places left) and the Douro Valley. Don’t delay booking your trip if you want to come with us in the fall!
Similarly for long-ish winter tours: both South America and South Africa are on the program. Both are fantastic wine destinations! And it is time to book now.
Happy reading.
Britt & Per
PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief!
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What’s on at BKWine Tours
- Bordeaux, September 17-21
- Douro Valley in Portugal, October 22-26
- Chile and Argentina in South America, January 31 – February 15, 2015
- South Africa, February 27 – March 9, 2015
For more information please contact us on email or on phone (we’re on French time), or go to our wine travel site on www.bkwinetours.com!
We also make custom designed wine tours – on-demand tours for you and a group of friends, for your company (maybe to scout new winegrowers?), for a special event… We can combine winery visits and wine touring with other activities: gastronomic workshops, visit to an oyster farm, truffles hunting, cheese making, and more. More info on the custom designed and bespoke BKWine wine tours and travel here!
Wine tours in Finnish: We also do wine tours in Finnish. And in German, Norwegian, Spanish…
Do you want the latest news and updates on our wine travel activity? Subscribe here! (Second alternative BKWineTours.com)
From the World of Wine
Nordic Sea Winery in Simrishamn – biggest winery in Sweden
Nordic Sea Winery in the small town of Simrishamn in the region of Skåne in southern Sweden will be inaugurated on June 11. This brand new state-of-the-art winery is built by wine entrepreneur Takis Soldatos who, through his wine import companies Oenoforos and Carovin, is the biggest supplier of wines to Systembolaget, the Swedish monopoly for wine and spirits.
Wines are shipped by boat to Nordic Sea Winery from countries like Italy and South Africa. At Nordic Sea Winery the wines are blended, maybe aged in the big barrel cellar and then bottled or put in bag in box.
Hopefully we will soon visit the winery and we will come back with more detailed information.
Autumn and winter tours on the program
Now is a good time to decide on a wine tour for the autumn of the winter. We have two tours on the schedule for the autumn and two for the winter.
Two classic tours in the fall:
- Bordeaux, September 17-21
- Douro Valley, Portugal, October 22-26
And two “long haul” trips for the winter, that will both take you down to the sunny southern hemisphere:
- Chile & Argentina, January 31 – February 15
- South Africa, February 27 – March 9
Check your calendar and book the one that tempts you the most. All info on the wine tours here.
Pure and healthy country air?
Well, not always. In the district of Blaye in the Bordeaux region recently an entire school class was taken to hospital after having exhibited symptoms of poisoning, which apparently were due to a wine producer spraying his vineyard nearby.
The wine producer used a common and permitted product to spray against fungal diseases. But the investigation showed that the spraying was done without adequate safety precautions. The investigation also showed that the symptoms exhibited by the children are consistent with the effects that this fungicide can have on people, if used incorrectly.
Read more about this at lavigne-mag.
There are of course rules for how and when you can spray your vineyard. Most important is the rule that forbids any spraying when the wind blows over a certain wind speed. Additionally, the wine producer has to make sure that his sprayer is very precise and well adjusted; he should have hedges or other protective barriers, respect certain times of spraying and so on.
Spraying by helicopter, forbidden but not quite
Should spraying by helicopter or air-plane be banned? Yes, says Segolène Royale, the French Minister for ecology, sustainability and energy (as well as ex-presidential candidate and ex-partner of the current president). There is actually already an EU ban on helicopter spraying but winemakers and some other farmers in France (banana growers in Guadeloupe, for example) have so far been exempted from the ban. Segolène Royale now says that this exemption should be removed immediately.
Winegrowers are currently allowed to spray from the air when the ground is soaking wet and you cannot go out with a tractor or if you have vineyards on steep slopes where it is considered dangerous to drive a tractor.
Aerial spraying is between ten to twenty times faster than a tractor. However, it goes without saying, there will not be much precision. Read more at La Vigne La Vigne.
The USA becomes the world’s largest wine market
Jean-Marie Aurand is the new general director of the OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine), an organization based in Paris. In May, he presented figures and trends for the wine countries in the world.
As expected, the United States is now the world’s largest wine market with a consumption of 29.1 million hectolitres of wine. France however, is not far behind.
The rapid development that has been in China since 2000 has slowed down, at least for now. The consumption in China decreased by 3.8 % between 2012 and 2013.
Several of the other large markets have decreased their imports (United Kingdom, Canada, Japan, the Netherlands). On the other hand some other European markets have increased their imports, Germany, Switzerland, Denmark, Sweden, and also Russia.
You can see all the facts and figures for 2013 here: OIV statistics.
Adventures in South America: new wine tour to Chile and Argentina
A wine tour to Argentina and Chile is very much about passion and enthusiasm. It is spectacular and remote wine regions. A wonderful gastronomy. Welcoming people. But it is also an opportunity to explore the cities: Buenos Aires, Santiago, and Valparaiso. BKWine’s new wine tour and gourmet tour to Chile and Argentina in February 2015 has just been launched.
Tango on the Pampas, Valparaiso, Andean peaks… There is much more than wine that attracts in South America. But the wine also tempts of course! Since a few decades back, both Chilean and Argentine wines have reached world-class. Both countries have also a genuine food culture, their own gastronomic traditions. All this you will experience on the newly launched wine tour to Chile and Argentina. Read more on the program here: New wine tour to Chile & Argentina: Wine, food and tango – passion on the wine tour to South America.
Welcome to Blaxta Winery
We received some news from one of the Swedish vineyards the other day. Blaxsta Winery in Sörmland, south of Stockholm, is probably the most rewarded of the Swedish vineyards. Göran Amnegård, owner and winemaker, says that three of Blaxtas Vidal Ice Wine has received over 97 points by Robert Parker and a gold medal in the International Challenge du Vin.
Last year’s beautiful summer resulted in one of Blaxtas best vintages so far, says Göran. “Our Merlot and Chardonnay were picked with great maturity, they have delicate fruit aromas and lovely tannins.” And as for 2014, it is not only in France that it is an early season. “We will have a very early flowering here at Blaxta.”
The restaurant at Blaxta Winery is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year and it will be open daily, 7 days / week, during the period June 27 to August 7. Göran will compose a new 5-course menu every night. www.blaxstawine.se
New grand cru vineyards in Burgundy?
Will the Côte d’Or in Burgundy have a few more Grand Cru vineyards in a few years? Some people hope so while others are less enthusiastic. Applications from three premier cru vineyards in Pommard have been submitted to the INAO, the Institut National de l’ Origine et de la Qualité. They are Pommard Les Rugiens, les Epenots and le Clos des Epeneaux .
Also Nuits -Saint-Georges is trying its luck. Just as Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges has no grand cru but several highly regarded premier crus. And one of them, Les Saint- Georges, the vineyard that has given its name to the town, has now applied for the highest level.
But the road to grand cru status is long. INAO will now carefully study and analyse these vineyards to determine if they deserve grand cru status. “Terroir” is important, of course. Soil, location, climate but the economical (the prices of wines from these vineyards compared to other premier crus) and the historical aspect will also play a big part in the decision.
Currently there are 32 grand cru vineyards in the Côte d’Or. And the lucky few who own land here is apparently not too keen on the idea that the exclusive group could become bigger. The last vineyards to be granted Grand Cru status was Clos des Lambrays in Morey -Saint-Denis in 1981 (more on Clos des Lambrays here) and Grande Rue in Vosne- Romanée 1991. Read more on Vitisphere.
An even better wine tour to South Africa in March 2015
The definitive program for the wine tour to South Africa is now published. We have changed some of the planning and hope that this will be even more tempting for you. In this edition of the wine and food tour to South Africa we include Hermanus and Walker Bay. This is two regions on the south coast, east from Cape Town. The climate is a bit cooler here. It is a wine region that is today considered by many experts to be very exciting thanks to the proximity to the sea.
In addition to that we also include the classic regions of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Constantia. We have selected some of the most skilful winemakers, sometimes not so famous as the biggest “brands”, and that can be difficult to get access to. Even if you have previously been to South Africa this could give you some exciting new discoveries.
And if you have never been there, is it not time to go now? Read more on this unique wine tour to South Africa.
More sparkling wine from Burgundy
Sparkling wine is doing well at the moment. More and more consumers want to treat themselves to bubbles and not only when there is a party. In addition to Champagne, many French wine regions make quality sparkling wine. Burgundy is one and the other day, on 26th of May, one of the top producers of sparkling wine in Burgundy, Maison Boisset in Nuits-Saint-Georges, celebrated the 20th anniversary of its first sparkling wine. Now the house makes 10.5 million bottles of sparkling. 2.5 million of these are Crémant de Bourgogne under the familiar name of Louis Bouillot.
Boisset’s plan is to almost double its production of Crémant de Bourgogne. For that they need the grapes. With the promise of long contracts of 10 or 15 years, they will try to attract growers around Burgundy, and especially in southern Beaujolais, to deliver grapes.
The total production of Crémant de Bourgogne is nearly 18 million bottles a year.
Read more in Bourgogne Aujourd’hui Bourgogne Aujourd’hui.
The southern Rhône Valley: spices from Provence and spicy wines, Papal Palace and quality revolution
There are many things to discover in the southern Rhône Valley. It is a region that has the irresistible Provencal charm, but also many other things that makes it worth a trip. For instance the wines! Today it is not only Châteauneuf-du-Pape that makes wines at the top of the quality pyramid. You can find many, many other outstanding wine producer here.
Read Britt’s column on the travel blog about a wonderful trip through this region: Provençal climate, spicy wines and Papal palace, Wine tour to the Rhône Valley.
How to choose a wine with your desert
If you want to finish dinner with a glass of sweet wine with the dessert there are many wines to choose from. BKWine’s Anette Zellen Soderstrom went to a tasting of sweet wines and sweet things to eat and searched for the ideal combination.
Not always easy to find, she discovered. Read about how to combine your dessert with a sweet wine. [divider_flat]
Vines in greenhouses – a Swedish solution
The climate in Sweden is not ideal for viticulture. Åke Wester knew that and therefore he began to grow vines in greenhouses instead. The greenhouses he already had and thus was created the winery Westervin outside the city of Linköping. 3000 litres of wine are produced right now.
BKWine’s Peter Cronström has visited the winery, met the winemakers (and the hens!) and tasted the wines. Read all about it: A Swedish winery is born. [divider_flat]
New glass from Riedel – for Coke!
The highly renowned glass manufacturer Riedel makes glasses for different types of wine and different grape varieties. They have a range of different wine glasses. And now they also make a glass that is supposed to be perfect for Coca Cola. It sounds like a joke but it is not.
Our reporter Anette Zellen Soderstrom has tried the Coca Cola glass. And at the same tasting she also had a chardonnay in a sauvignon blanc glass. Read all about this experience: Riedel glass tasting with Coca Cola. [divider_flat]
Osteria de l’Ortolano – Genuine restaurant in Florence
Florence being as it is, with tourists everywhere, you are lucky to find a restaurant that feels genuine. So the Osteria de l’Ortolano, in the very centre of the city, is a rare pearl. You are served ambitious and authentic food, surrounded by olive oils, cheeses, hams and other delicious Italian things.
Apparently you must absolutely not miss the dark chocolate dessert. I am already looking forward to the next tour to Tuscany. Read about A new restaurant in Florence: Osteria de l’Ortolano. [divider_flat]
More news on the travel blog: customer feedback and press clippings
We have some news on the travel blog, comments from people who have travelled with us in South America and a mention of our wine tours in the gastronomic press. Read more here:
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Domaine Jaboulet, reborn star of the northern Rhone valley.
Domaine Paul Jaboulet Ainé has long been one of the big names in Tain l’Hermitage. The big signs with the name Jaboulet on the impressive Hermitage slope are hard to miss. The family Jaboulet does not own the house anymore. But the new owners since a few years back continue the tradition and have also added some new thinking, usually a good combination.
Jaboulet’s export manager was recently in Stockholm and presented a series of wines including Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage and Cornas, plus some other wines. BKWine’s Carl-Erik Kanne was there. Read the report about the Renaissance for one of the Rhône Valley’s big names: Domaine Jaboulet.
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