We have tasted some rare grape varieties recently when we were on a wine tasting tour around the country. We want to share this experience with you and recommend a few wines. Maybe you will not find precisely these wines in your store, but look for the grapes.
Spain: Joaquin Rebolledo, Godello, 2021, Galicia, ~12 euro.
Godello is an important white grape in Galicia. The family was among the first to rediscover this old local grape over 40 years ago. After a short skin contact and a cool fermentation the wine is kept on the lees before bottling. The wine gives intense aromas of fruits such as apricot and peach, a slightly oily structure in the mouth, and good freshness. Smoothness and ripe fruit emerge in the finish.
Chile: País Viejo 2022, Viña Bouchon, Maule, ~12 euro.
País, a red grape, is the original grape in Chile, brought there by the Spanish in the 16th century. We also find it today in the Canary Islands. The grape is well adapted to the hot region of Maule, and the vineyards are managed without irrigation. The wine spontaneously ferments for two weeks in a concrete tank and rests for a while in stainless steel tanks. Light in colour with lots of fruit, raspberries, and strawberries with dried herbs at the end that give a bit of a structure. Juicy and delicious. A typical país.
Savoie, France: Arbin Mondeuse Avalanche 2020, Fabien Trosset, Savoie, ~16 euro.
Since 2011, Fabien and his partner Chloé Gobet have been running this 25-hectare estate focusing on the local and rare mondeuse grape, which grows in red and fertile clay. The vines are 50 years old. 50% of the bunches of grapes are de-stemmed, and 50% are placed whole-bunch in the fermentation tank. This way, the fruit is accentuated, and the grape’s tannins are softened. The wine rests in stainless steel tanks before bottling. Lovely aromas of violets, warm spices, black pepper, red berries, and black currants, quite full-bodied with the tannins rounded off.
