Sherry’s new rules modernise the image, production zone, winemaking practices, grape varieties

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Sherry is back in fashion. Perhaps. In any case, many are trying hard to breathe new life into this old venerable wine. When the sherry region modernised its rules in 2021, it received some attention. Modernising production rules in an old classic wine region is always a good thing.

A single geographical zone has now been introduced for both the production and the ageing of sherry wines.

Before, it had been possible to grow the grapes and vinify the wine in nine different municipalities. The ageing, however, could only be made in one of three towns, El Puerto de Santa María, Sanlúcar de Barrameda or Jerez de la Frontera. This was a very outdated rule, reminiscent of the one that existed in the port wine region until 1986.

Another new rule is that a sherry does not have to be fortified, which is a dramatic rule change for a “fortified” wine.

For example, a fino can now be sold with its natural alcohol contents, which, however, must still amount to at least 15%. Maybe this rule will be developed further. A fino at 13% would be nice.

Also, old, forgotten grape varieties will now be allowed in sherry production: mantúo castellano, mantúo de pilas, vejeriego, perruno, cañocazo and beba.

A tapas bar on Calle San Juan in Logrono, Rioja
A tapas bar on Calle San Juan in Logrono, Rioja, copyright BKWine Photography

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