Champagne Bollinger’s flagship Vieilles Vignes Françaises (VVF) is made in ever smaller quantities. The grapes come from vines planted franc de pied, a French expression for planted on its own roots. Thus, these vines are not grafted onto an American root resistant to the vine louse like all other vines in Champagne (and almost everywhere else).
But more and more of the two protected, walled plots (0.21 and 0.15 hectares, respectively) that provide the grapes for VVF are being eaten by the vine louse. The youngest vines die first; the older ones with more extensive root systems are more resistant. Soon, there may not be any vines left to make the famous champagne.
The yields are getting smaller and smaller. Bollinger says the number of bottles has gone from 3,000-4,000 (normal for a third of a hectare) to around 700 in just ten years.
How much, if any, of the character of the champagne that comes from the fact that the vines grow on their own roots is impossible to say. Bollinger can probably make as good a champagne on the same plots from grafted vines. Nevertheless, VVF has a unique selling point. And a unique price. (Shelf price around 1,500-2,500 euro.)
If you have a bottle of VVF in the cellar, saving it until the champagne is no longer made might be a good idea. Then, you can probably make a fortune at a wine auction.
Read more: thedrinksbusiness
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