A meeting and a tasting with Marilisa Allegrini
Marilisa Allegrini is part of the family Allegrini that runs the well-known wine producer Allegrini in Veneto. They are perhaps best known for their amarone, but they also make a wide range of other wines. BKWine met Marilisa when she recently was on brief visit to Stockholm. BKWine’s Peter Cronström reports.
Marilisa Allegrini was back in Stockholm a few days ago to present some new launches coming in the spring from Allegrini’s wineries in both Tuscany and in Veneto, including La Poja and amarone.
Allegrini has over 100 hectares of vineyards on the best slopes in the Valpolicella Classico area and the Allegrini family is one of Veneto’s most influential wineries. Allegrini has always played a major role in the development of the area’s viticulture and this for many generations.
Since 2002, Allegrini also owns 70 hectares in the heart of Bolgheri along the Tuscan gold coast. The vineyard Poggio al Tesoro mainly produces high-quality red wines but also white wines from the vermentino grape.
Lunch and tasting with the Allegrini wines
For the entree we were presented with a vertical tasting of Solose Vermentino Bolgheri DOC from four vintages: 2012, 2010, 2009 and 2007.
Marilisa told us about how they took cuttings of vermentino from Corsica and not from Sardinia, so that they would get the type of vermentino that they wanted. The younger vintages of the vermentino showed a clear riesling similarity but the older ones and especially the 2007 was more like a buttery chardonnay. All vintages were floral with a hint of yellow plums and peaches.
To go with a plate of mixed appetizers we were served three red wines. First up was a 2012 Corvina Veronese IGT, a entry level and good value wine that has nice fruit with cherry and plum flavours and with some hint of spices.
Then came a 2011 Belpasso Rosso which is a wine from the Valpolicella made from 30% dried grapes. This wine was previously named Appassimento but that name may not be used any longer, Marilisa explained, since the name alludes to the method of drying grapes and is abused by many. The wine was dark red and had a distinct taste of red fruits and a nice spiciness, a tasty wine.
2009 Dedicato a Walter is a wine from Tuscany made from 100% cabarnet franc. The wine has been made as a tribute to Mari Lisa’s deceased brother with the same name. The wine was a pleasant surprise, deep red colour with a complex aroma and a fruity-sweet taste with barrel character, pepper and a little mint.
To the main course we were served three vintages of La Poja Veronese IGT: 2004, 2001 and 2000, all in magnums.
The wine is consistently very complex, with dark fruit, spices with hints of toasted barrels and much tannin. The difference between vintages is that the 2004 had a higher acidity than the others, the 2001 had more tannins and require more aging to come into its own, and the 2000 was of course the most mature the wine with more complexity than the others. All wines will benefit from ageing.
To the cheese Marilisa presented two vintages of the Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella 2004 and 2000, both in magnum bottles. Both were deep red and complex; an elegant yet soft wine with raisiny character. The difference between the vintages was substantial. The 2004 already felt mature and balanced but the 2000 was still full of acidity and tannins and can be aged for long.
Marilisa explained that many Amarone producers grow vines at low altitude and cut corners on the aging and release amarones that are far too young. She recommended taking a ripasso from a reputable winery instead of these cheap amarones.
The tasting was held at the restaurant Italiano Papa in Stockholm and was organised by the wine importer The Wineagency (part of Vingruppen) who represents Allegrini in Sweden.
Peter Cronström writes on BKWine Magazine on wine tastings with wine merchants and importers.
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Allegrini is one of many quality producers of amarone, valpolicella and other wines of the Veneto. The best way to experience more of all these excellent wines and the delicious Italian food is on a wine tour to Veneto with BKWine.
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