A study in elegance: Palmer Blanc de Blancs Champagne, 2011 back to 1985

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On May 30 the champagne house Palmer & Co. (and Oenoforos) launched Palmer Blanc de Blancs 2011. This was done in conjunction with a vernissage and tasting, which they called “The Art of Elegance”. They had invited a number of artists to make a small art installation around their Blanc de Blancs 2011, which was shown at the launch. In the same room we were then given the opportunity to taste a number of other editions with ten years between each. It was blanc de blancs in magnum bottles of the 2005, 1995 and 1985 vintages. Next, we tasted 2011.

Palmer Champagne, magnums
Palmer Champagne, magnums, copyright L Stengard

I talked with the CEO of Palmer and asked if they received the visit. He replied that they had no actual reception facilities but they do receive groups of knowledgeable amateurs, such as members of wine clubs, if time allows. They have limited personnel who can receive guests. It is, as I understand it, the CEO himself and their chief oenologist.

When it was time for the tasting we were a little over twenty invited who sat down at the table. The champagnes were presented one by one. Under a flurry of photo flashes they poured the wines into the glasses. I agree that all champagnes live up to the motto “The Art of Elegance”. The ones we tasted were all balanced, but at the same time very dry and crisp.

At Champagne Palmer in Reims
At Champagne Palmer in Reims, copyright BKWine Photography

2005 Palmer Blanc de Blancs, magnum

Dry, nutty and toasty with distinct mineral character. Tastes fresh with marked acidity and a long finish. Still young so it will only get better with some age. It is suitable for shellfish and white fish. (approx. retail price in Sweden 80 euro, magnum)

1995 Palmer Blanc de Blancs, magnum

Fruity with flavours of yellow apples, hints of sweet almond, slightly toasty and still fresh with some acidity.

If you have a bottle it is ready to drink now.

A Champagne cellar full of bottles
A Champagne cellar full of bottles, copyright BKWine Photography

1985 Palmer Blanc de Blancs, magnum

Several of us around the table were a bit surprised; this champagne had a more acidity than the 10 years younger (the 1995). Toasty, of course, with a taste of fruit and concentrated flavours of apple again. This can perhaps be explained by that it was only “half a harvest” in 1985 because of frost on February 25. A very good blanc de blancs.

2011 Palmer Blanc de Blancs

Today’s launch! A dry fresh and tingly champagne with a high acidity and some maturity. A distinct chardonnay character with a long crisp and fresh taste. (~35 euro)

In conclusion, I can say that both the champagnes from 2005 and 2011 (currently available on the market) are well worth buying. Enjoy them just on their own or with food, or cellar them for a while for a bit more maturity.

Lennart Stengård writes för BKWine Magazine on wine tastings and wine events in Sweden.

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