Michel Laroche is a legendary wine producer in Chablis. He built up his wine business from scratch to a major wine producer with vineyards and wineries on three continents. And then he sold it all. Now he is back in the wine business. Laroche has started a new winery in Chablis called Domaine d’Henri. BKWine’s Britt Karlsson met with Michel Laroche over lunch in Stockholm.
Michel Laroche is back in the game. His new domaine in Chablis is called Domaine d’Henri after his father.
Michel Laroche founded and was for many years at the head of the successful Domaine Michel Laroche, one of the largest producers in Chablis. In 2009 the company merged with Jeanjean, a negociant in the Languedoc. This became the foundation of the company Advini and Michel became the second largest shareholder (after Jeanjean). Today Advini, besides Laroche and Jeanjean, consists of Domaine Ogier in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Cazes in Roussillon, Domaine Gassier in Costières de Nîmes, Maison Rigal in Cahors and Maison Antoine Moueix in Saint Emilion.
To retire and spend his days sailing (a passionate hobby) did not sound as a good alternative to Michel. To start making wine again however, but on a small scale, did. At the time of the merger with Jeanjean Michel regained a few hectares of his parents’ vineyards and a further 8 hectares will be his when the lease contract with Advini expires. Then he will have 15 hectares in total which is quite a good size for a vineyard in Chablis.
“Now”, says Michel, “I have more time to try and make good wines. This is not business, this is just pleasure.” But with a smile he says that hopefully it will not turn out to be an expensive pleasure. He is lucky he says. His two daughters, Cécile and Margaux, are working with him in this new project.
The new wine cellar will soon be finished. It is being built just outside the town of Chablis. There will be a small vineyard outside. To make Domaine d’ Henri’s first vintage in 2012 Michel rented space in the cellars of Domaine Laroche.
2012 was thus the first vintage. A difficult year, says Michel. This is not immediately apparent in the wines however. They feel balanced. But the fact is that Michel thinks 2012 was his worst year ever. Many organic growers had to give up and start spraying conventional products, he says. He knows how unpredictable the weather can be and he would never commit to never use conventional spraying.
It has its advantages to be small and to have time to do whatever one wants, he says. He has three small plots on the Fourchaume slope, a famous premier cru. He makes three different Fourchaume, one from each plot. When the same three plots belonged to Domaine Laroche everything was blended into one wine. But there are differences to consider, he says: age of the vines and exposure for instance. “Now I have time to care about the details.”
As expected he uses screw cap for all the wines. “The screw cap keeps the wines much younger and fresher,” he says with certainty. And, he believes, this is also true for red wines.
Here are some tasting notes for the first vintage 2012 of Domaine d’Henry. The wines are classic Chablis style, clean and fresh. Oak is used very moderately, if at all. A new domain to watch for any Chablis lovers.
Domaine d’Henri Chablis 2012
2 plots with vines of around 20 years old. Nice, clean citrus nose. Fresh on the palate with a good acidity and length. Classic Chablis. It is this style of Chablis, clean & mineral, that Michel prefers himself.
Domaine d’Henri Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume 2012
From two of the best locations on Fourchaume with 30 year old vines. A full-bodied wine with some fatness, quite round but with good structure. A small portion, about 10%, has been aged in oak barrels.
Domaine d’Henri Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes 2012
Now the vines are over 40 years old and the wine is a bit more focused and complex than the previous one. Good body, fresh citrus aromas, good concentration and a lively, refreshing acidity. Will keep nicely.
Domaine d’Henri Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume Héritage 2012
The vines were planted in 1937 and the grapes have very thick skins. This means that the grapes can be harvested later, more mature. They will not easily be attacked by rot. Intense aromas of citrus and hint of exotic fruit. About a third of the volume has been aged in oak. This gives fullness and roundness to the body but not really any oak aromas. Long, juicy after-taste.
The meeting with Michel Laroche and his wines from Domaine d’Henri had been arranged by the Swedish importer Albert & Lily and took place at Restaurant Strandvägen 1 in Stockholm in late November.
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There is actually a wide range of styles in Chablis. You can experience them all, taste the wines and meet the winemakers on a wine tour to Chablis with BKWine.
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