It is often the passion that pushes small-scale wine importers to start their business, the passion for a certain wine country or a certain wine district. This is true in Sweden but also in many other countries. Vinonista’s story has many parallels in other countries. Martin Wall’s parents were wine enthusiasts; his mother had a great fondness for Italian food and, one might assume, also Italian wines. Martin’s interest in wine was founded in the parental home. After several years of travelling in the European wine districts, it became clear that he had a favourite region, Italian Piedmont. But, as he says, “he could not find the quality wines from the smaller wine producers in Sweden.”
So it was with wines from Piedmont that Vinonista, Martin’s company, started as an import business. Martin now offers wines from many parts of Italy: Lombardy, Veneto, Friuli, Tuscany, Marche, Campania, Basilicata and Sicily.
Vinonista’s wines come exclusively from small-scale winemakers. Prestige and fame are not the essential things, says Martin. He wants to offer good wines with character and at reasonable prices. He selects all the wines he sells himself. And he has grand plans. Search for Vinonista at Systembolaget, and it will be like entering a small wine shop specializing in Italy. (And had it not been for the retail monopoly in Sweden, it is not hard to imagine that there would have been a Vinonista brick-and-mortar shop with even more wines to choose from. Today Vinonista is limited to selling its wines through the Systembolaget monopoly “on order range”, on which the monopoly is obliged to list any wine that an importer/supplier requests them to list.)
We have tasted some wines from Vinonista’s range
Barbaresco 2016, Tenuta San Mauro
This is a typical barbaresco in a delicious, elegant and drinking-friendly style with cherries and wonderfully juicy fruit. A touch of tannin with some grip is present at the end. You can drink it with pleasure now.
The vineyards are located around the village of Nieve. The wine has been aged in French barrels for 12 months and bottled without fining and filtration. The family business Tenuta San Mauro has 40 hectares of vineyards and 30 hectares of forest and arable land. (~30 euro, all prices quoted here are approximate Swedish retail prices.)
Aglianico del Vulture 2018 SCEG, Elena Fucci, Basilicata
A refreshing wine with lots of red berries but also some warm spices and tobacco, made in a refreshing style. It is tempting to take another sip. A particular style of the aglianico grape that probably also appeals to natural wine enthusiasts. Bottled in a lightweight bottle that actually only weighs 360 grams. Thank you for that.
The skilled winemaker Elena Fucci in Basilicata in southern Italy has received much attention for her personal wines made with the family’s old vines (70 years and older), partly planted by her grandfather Generoso, 95 years of age. (~25 eur)
Langhe Rosato 2019 DOC, Diecigradi, Agricola Fratelli Broccardo, Piemonte
Nebbiolo and barbera from Monforte d’Alba in Piedmont give a nice and tasty rosé with lots of raspberries, peaches, apples and white flowers. The finish is dry and healthy. The grapes are pressed gently and softly; the fermentation takes place at a temperature as low as 10 degrees, diecigradi (this emphasizes the fresh aromatic fruitiness). The wine rests for about three months in steel tank before bottling. It is a rosé that has the structure to keep for a few years without problems. (~18 euro)
Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese DOC 2020, Gaudio, Piemonte
Grignolino is an interesting blue Piedmont grape, not so well known. Two things in particular usually strike one when tasting grignolino. One is the light colour; the other is the high acidity, which can be really high. In this wine from the producer Gaudio, something of a specialist in grignolino, the acidity is balanced and contributes to the structure of the wine. The taste is light and juicy but with intense berry aromas (red currants, raspberries…) and the finish a little sweet-sour. The colour is very light, but you should not be fooled by that. There is a lot of character here. (~20 euro)
Castelveder Franciacorta Brut
Castelveder Franciacorta Brut Blanc de Blanc is made with 100% chardonnay and has been kept on the lees for 18 months before the disgorging. The taste is nuanced and balanced, slightly bready and floral. A tasty bubbly that works well both as an aperitif and all through a meal. (~26 euro)
Franciacorta is today a much-appreciated wine from Lombardy in northern Italy, east of Piedmont. The wines are hailed as champagne peers. The wines are made using the traditional method, i.e. a second fermentation in bottle. The grapes are chardonnay, pinot bianco (pinot blanc) and pinot nero (pinot noir).
Here you can find this Italian specialist: https://vinonista.com/.
