Out of the Bottle: Some recently tasted wines worth mentioning, May 2003

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  • Tokay Furmint Dry 2001, Oremus: Very well made dry wine from the Tokaj district. Crisp and elegant, citrus and some almonds and wood. ~€8 from the estate, but difficult to get hold of elsewhere in Europe. www.tokajoremus.com. See pictures at BKWine.
  • Domaine de Triennes, Cuvée St-Auguste, 1999, Vin de Pays du Var: A full-bodied and well made wine. Two well known Burgundy producers have joined together to create a new domaine in Provence: Aubert de Villaine (Dom de la Romanée Conti) and Jacques Seysses (Dom Dujac). A mix of Cab S, Merlot and Syrah. Lots of fruit, spice and southern warmth. ~€12 from Le Nez Rouge (see above). www.triennes.com
  • St-Aubin 1988, Pierre Leduc (Tastevinage), Bourgogne: We’ve drunk a few bottles like this over the years and have generally been a bit disappointed. Now, it has developed into a lovely, classic, ripe burgundy. Fine, old Pinot character. (From our cellar.)
  • Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, Stellenbosch, South Africa: quite full-bodied, warm and full of fruit. Very well balanced with a more “classic” character rather than “new world”. ~€16 from Fine Wine World (see above).
  • Chateau Malescot St Exupery 1972, 1975, 1976, 1980, 1990, Medoc, Bordeaux: Next to the graveyard? Not at all. ’72 was a bit passé but quite drinkable and interesting; ’75 was hard and lacking body; ’76 was very good and elegant, a bit light; ’80 was light and with some red berries but with a certain elegance and charm; ’90: full-bodied, classic Bordeaux, quite a lot of tannin, very good. (From our cellar.)
  • Beaujolais Blanc 1999, Domaine Terres Dorées, Cuvée fermentée en fûts de chêne, Jean-Paul Brun: With a few years’ bottle age this has developed into a very interesting chardonnay with quite a bit of soft oak character. From one of the better growers in Beaujolais. You can find the wines from J-P Brun (not just the white one) e.g. at Grande Epicerie (au Bon Marché, rue de Sèvres, Paris 7e) and Lafayette Gourmet (see above).

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