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Why is Italy doing so well?
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What can others learn from Italy? The country has been incredibly dominant in the Swedish market for several years. Italy sells twice as much as Spain and almost twice as much as France.
Are the wines better? Are they geniuses at marketing? Is there some worship of Italy going on among wine consumers? The last two arguments come closest to the truth. Because even if Italian wines are good, they are not twice as good as French and Spanish.
People seem to like Italy and there is nothing wrong with that. If the Italians do strange things, people say, “Oh, the Italians are so charming and unpredictable”. When the French do the same odd things, people say, “Oh, the French are so difficult and complicated”.
But it wasn’t France I wanted to compare Italy to, but Spain. France is doing well anyway, as the world’s largest producer of quality wines with enviable export statistics. Italy leads in volume (in Sweden) but France sells more expensive wines.
But if we compare Spain and Italy, why is Spain doing so much worse in the export market than Italy? Both are Mediterranean countries where tourists go for their summer holidays. Spain is a holiday paradise to an even greater extent than Italy. But the tourists are, of course, looking for sun, not for good wines.
Tourists eat, though, and eating is a crucial argument for why Italy is doing so well. The Spanish may well envy the Italians for their cuisine. Spanish gastronomy cannot compete with the Italian. Well, in quality, they can compete, but not in popularity. There is a pizzeria around the corner in every country you can imagine and everyone likes pasta. Italian food spreads Italian wines and Italian culture all over the world. What does Spain have? Spain has paella and tapas and the star chefs of San Sebastian.
The star chefs have raised the status of Spanish gastronomy but they are abstract to most people because you actually need to go to San Sebastian to experience them. I don’t think paella is big in any other country than Spain. A tapas trend spread over the world not so long ago and is still around, mainly in the form of small-portion plates that don’t feel particularly Spanish. Tapas has instead become a synonym for small portions and not for Spanish gastronomy.
What if the world only knew that Spain, not Italy, makes the world’s best cured ham by far. And is the world’s largest producer of olive oil. Has fish and shellfish second to none…
The Spanish themselves admit that they are bad at marketing. They are not getting their message out there. And today, they need to do that. Domestic wine consumption in Spain has decreased. The wine industry needs to export its wines, and it does; it’s just a shame that much of the Spanish export is bulk wine at rock-bottom prices.
The Spaniards need to boost their self-confidence.
The Italians, on the other hand, are geniuses at marketing. The Italians know marketing; they are born salespeople. They seem to know in advance what consumers want. Just look at prosecco, which went from selling 120 million bottles in 2009 to 700 million today (after first hijacking the prosecco grape name by pretending it was a district). Impressive. The Italians got Americans to drink pinot grigio in large sips and created a new appellation to satisfy the demand.
Another illustration: As journalists and wine writers, we sometimes (not very often actually) receive invitations to press trips. They are almost always to Italy, at least three out of four invitations.
But is Spanish wine doomed from the start?
Fewer wine books and less text are written about Spain. Spain gets less space in wine books that deal with the wine world in general. The wine writer Miquel Hudin, specialising in Spain, wrote in an article in 2023 that in the 8th edition of the World Atlas of Wine (the wine bible for many wine enthusiasts by Johnson & Robinson), there are only 18 pages dedicated to Spain (the same as the previous edition) and 25 for Germany (he’s right, I’ve verified). Italy has 33. Hudin brings up other wine books as examples of Spain not getting its fair share. Google Trends shows the same picture; “Italian wine” is twice as searched for as “Spanish wine”.
Could it be, as Hudin suggests, that already when people are studying wine, Spain is treated unfairly? Just look at the first sentence about Spain in the latest edition of the World Atlas of Wine: “With more vines than anybody else, but few wines of interest…” Who wants to admit to having written that?!
How wrong these few words seem.
Viva España!
Launching the wine tour season!
Next week the autumn travel season begins. Our very first destination this year will be the Loire Valley, a region that has recently regained in popularity. Which is not surprising. There are fantastic wines here, often at ridiculously low prices. There are wonderful restaurants in quaint little villages. All strewn along the long, but shallow river. This tour is followed by a whole series of autumn wine tours.
Another tour that is really special is our South America wine tour that takes you to Chile and Argentina in January. It is perhaps our most exotic trip juxtaposing these two Latin American countries and also an absolutely fantastic journey over the Andes. If you want to come along, you need to act NOW. Book before 15 September.
We have two other very special tours this winter. First, The Great South Africa Tour, which takes you to almost every wine region in South Africa. A unique insight into South Africa’s wines that no other tour can give you. Book before: 15 October.
The third winter tour is to New Zealand. I should probably also call it “The Great” New Zealand tour. From north to south over 16 days, you get a view of this new and modern but far-away wine country that few others have. Be one of the first to realize that New Zealand has so much more to offer than “just” sauvignon blanc. Not least nature and culture. A so charming wine country. Book before 15 November.
More info on our wine tours here. “World’s Top Wine Tours“. Tours with the people who know wine and who have an unrivalled experience of wine and tours.
Travel in wine regions with someone you trust.
Enjoy the Brief!
Britt & Per
Wine editors to the national encyclopedia, Forbes.com contributors, award-winning wine book authors, wine tour advisors to the UN and national wine organisations, wine judges … and, above all, passionate wine travellers.
If you appreciate what we do, you can help us:
Tell your friends about the Brief or send it to them.
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What’s on at BKWine Tours
BKWine is also one of the world’s leading wine tour operators. Here’s what we currently have on our scheduled wine tour program:
- Champagne, 25-29 September 2024
- Bordeaux and Champagne, 25 Sept – 3 Oct 2024
- Bordeaux, 29 Sep – 3 Oct 2024
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- Chile-Argentina, 13-26 January 2025
- South Africa, 14-24 February 2025
- New Zealand, 11-26 March 2025
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- Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, 17-25 September 2025 (program coming soon)
We also make custom designed wine tours.
We’re different than most other wine tour operators. We are people who know wine inside out, who travel constantly in wine regions, who write award winning books about wine. Who do this out of passion.
Our wine tours are different from others.
A typical year we organise more than 30 wine tours to destinations across the world. In Europe: France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and more. World-wide: South Africa, Chile, Argentina, New Zealand. Thanks to our Scandinavian background we have a separate offer for the Scandinavian market. These are sometimes offered in English and also available as custom made tours. For example, these destinations:
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Read our books
We have written eleven wine books. They have won awards from the Gourmand Awards, The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) and others.
Unfortunately, only one of them has been translated to English; the others are (so far) only available in Swedish. This is the one that is available in English:
Here’s the full list of our books:
- The Wonderful World of Wine
- Languedoc-Roussillon, the Wines of Southern France
- Champagne, the Wine and the Growers
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News from the World of Wine
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Short briefs on what’s been happening in the world of wine recently and other interesting things.
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This year’s harvest has started in France after a rainy and dry season (depending on the wine region)
It has been a challenging year for many French wine regions. The Ministry of Agriculture predicts a slightly lower volume than the average of the last five years, which is just over 44 million hectolitres and significantly lower than last year’s bumper harvest of 47.9 million hl. It has been unusually rainy this summer, and many places have suffered severe attacks of downy mildew, a fungal disease. In addition, the weather was cold and damp during flowering, which caused problems with grapes not developing correctly. However, it has not rained everywhere. In Narbonne in Languedoc, it only rained 250 mm between January and August. Growers expect to lose up to 50% of their harvest. In certain places in Roussillon and Languedoc, the drought is so severe that it is feared that the vineyards will not survive much longer. Several French wine regions have also experienced spring frosts and violent hailstorms. And then there has been the occasional forest fire to top it all off, but probably without any grapes being smoke-damaged. However, it is essential to remember that difficult weather does not necessarily mean a lower quality wine.
Prosecco and pinot grigio for Gen Z
Much is written about the fact that the young generation does not drink wine. That is not entirely true; the young drink wine, at least some of it (but not as much as the 60-plus). But what is true is that different age groups like different types of wine. The American Wine Market Council has done a study and confirmed that red wines with a lot of oak and rough tannins do not appeal to the younger generation. They prefer rosé, prosecco and light white wines. Of Gen Z (ages 21-26), 33% like dry rosé wine; only 10% do among baby boomers (born 1946-1964). 27% of Gen Z like prosecco, but only 15% of the baby boomers. Only 21% of Gen Z like cabernet sauvignon, but 31% of the baby boomers. The difference is slightly smaller for pinot grigio (27% and 20%, respectively) and sauvignon blanc (22% and 18%).
The survey applies to the USA but it is probably not wholly different in other countries. Red wine consumption is going down and white wine consumption is going up everywhere. Light, aromatic grape varieties are in fashion, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, vermentino, alvarinho, etc. Younger people in the US (as well as in other countries) do not shy away from drinking wine in cocktails. Sangria and spritz are popular summer drinks in the US. Too. Spritz seemed to be everywhere on the sidewalk tables this summer. Read more: winebusiness
More dry Jurançon, yes, please
Dry Jurançon is one of our favourite white wines. Jurançon is traditionally a sweet wine. Jurançon Sec (completely dry – as opposed to sparkling wine, champagne included, that is not dry when called “sec”) has had its own appellation for 50 years, which growers can use for their early-harvested grapes. The sweet Jurançon requires a late harvest. Many still associate Jurançon with sweet wines. But the demand for white dry wines is increasing, and Jurançon Sec today, finally, has a solid reputation as one of France’s great white wines.
Production today is 50% sweet and 50% dry for the independent growers but the large cooperative Cave de Jurançon still makes more sweet than dry. Another large cooperative, Plaimont, located next door in Madiran, is now investing heavily in dry Jurançon. They do it with a wine called Yura, derived from Yuransoû, “jurançon” in Béarnese, the local language (the region is called Béarn). Plaimont seeks out grape growers with slightly cooler locations and cooler exposure for this dry wine. The plan is to make 200,000 bottles of Yura. Beautiful Jurançon is located just south of Pau in the Southwest (Sud-Ouest). The grapes are the two magnificent petit manseng
and gros manseng, which can be supplemented with petit courbu, courbu, lauzet and camarale. We recommend you try Jurançon Sec whenever you have the chance. Read more: tema-agriculture-terroirs
Who wants organic wines today?
In France, sales of organic wines are a bit slow now. But there are export markets with a growing interest in these wines, says ISWR, a global company for data, analysis, and trends in the alcohol industry. A whopping 60% of all organic wines worldwide are drunk in Germany, France, and the UK. Other countries, such as Australia and South Korea, previously drank very little organic wine but are now seeing a significant increase, and it is believed that the potential exists for further growth. Other potential significant markets for organic wine are Hong Kong, Brazil, and New Zealand, IWSR believes. “Alternative” wines, such as organic, biodynamic, and natural wines, are top-rated among millennials (born between 1981 and 1996). This group makes up 69% of consumers in China and is, of course, a large consumer group in many other countries as well. So, there is probably hope for organic wine. Sweden and Germany are the two markets that are currently considered mature within the organic segment. Read more: mon-viti
Read: Read more on organic and biodynamic wines in BKWine’s book Organic, Biodynamic and Natural winemaking.
The drought is over for Cava, finally, and 2024 looks like an excellent harvest
After three years of intense and persistent drought, it finally rained in the Cava vineyards in the heart of Penedès in Spanish Catalonia. A long-awaited rain fell this spring and allowed the vines to recover. Now, the growers look forward to the harvest. The grapes have good acidity, and it is believed that their quality will be excellent. The weather was cool in May and June, with occasional rain showers and reasonable summer temperatures. Javier Pagès, DO Cava’s president, points out that the winegrowers have done a lot of work to restore the vines after the drought and the periods of extreme heat by pruning them carefully and considering each vine’s needs. Read more: cava
Minerality has nothing to do with soil and geology
The word minerality continues to fill columns and research reports. A new one has explored the concept of minerality by analysing tasting notes from 16,542 Chablis Premier Crus recorded on Cellar Tracker between 2003 and 2022, along with weather, topography and soil data for the Chablis area. The top three words used to describe Chablis Premier Cru wine were citrus, minerality and acidity. However, the use of minerality as a tasting comment decreased between the 1999 and 2019 vintages, while words such as acidity, salinity, flowers, and stone fruits increased. Minerality was used more often in cool vintages than in warm vintages. The report says this could point to the fact that people experience the notion of minerality more in cool-climate wines. However, the report says nothing indicates that minerality has anything to do with the soil. The decline in the use of the word minerality, the report suggests, may be due to climate change, the word not being as trendy anymore, especially as the idea that it is directly linked to the soil and geology has been widely discredited, or the use of alternative descriptors such as “salinity”. Read more: wiley
BKWine on minerality: No, “minerality” has nothing to do with the wine tasting like the soil or that the vine has taken up “minerals” with the roots, which then give a certain taste. For us it means, above all, “very dry, high acidity, some astringency, maybe even a little tannin”. But it means so many different things to other people (e.g. “flowery minerality”), so we recommend avoiding the word “minerality” and instead describing the wine in more tangible terms. As, for example, we did just above.
More new fungus-resistant grape varieties in France
More and more fungus-resistant hybrids are being allowed in France. Or perhaps a better wording: lesser prone to disease. Four new varieties, two whites and two reds, were recently introduced. These can be planted and vinified until further notice for ten years and then evaluated. The two whites, kersus and pinot iskra, resist downy and powdery mildew very well. Kersus produces, says the nursery, a wine reminiscent of chardonnay with a hint of pinot gris. Pinot iskra can only be known under its number, UD.109-033, as the French do not want names similar to Vitis vinifera grapes (with good reason it seems to us; unlike Italy who likes it). It is suitable for sparkling or aromatic wines to be drunk relatively quickly.
The red pinot kors (UD.156-537) also resist very well fungal diseases. It produces large yields, 16 tons per hectare, and has intense aromas of red fruits and cherries, silky tannins, and a relatively dark colour. Volturnis is highly resistant to downy mildew, but not to powdery mildew. It produces high yields, and the wines have intense aromas of ripe red fruits suitable for ageing. However, no fungus-resistant grapes have total resistance to severe attacks by mildew, as this summer has shown. Some spraying is always required. Read more: vitisphere
(Alb de Onitcani is a hybrid developed in Moldova.)
Everything except sauvignon blanc from New Zealand – Wine recommendations
Some countries are primarily associated with one grape variety, such as malbec in Argentina and sauvignon blanc in New Zealand. However, this latter country makes wine from a variety of other grapes (and so does Argentina by the way). Here are recommendations for those of you who want to try something other than sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. With its relatively cool climate, compared to other New World countries, the wines here often get a good crispness and acidity, be it red or white.
White
Fromm Chenin Blanc, 2020, Marlborough, New Zealand, ~30 euro
Pegasus Bay Winery Aged Release Riesling, 2014, New Zealand, ~35 euro
Red
Paritua Stone Paddock Syrah 2020, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, ~25 euro
Elephant Hill Le Phant Rouge, 2016, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, ~20 euro, (merlot and syrah with a bit of malbec, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc)
Te Mata Estate Gamay, 2022, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, ~20 euro
Mount Riley Pinot Noir, 2021, Marlborough, New Zealand, ~25 euro
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Travel: Come on a wine tour to New Zealand with BKWine.
See: See pictures and videos from New Zealand 2024 in the wine tour’s Facebook group.
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Features of the Month
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Articles and features published on BKWine Magazine and on our wine travel blog and (occasionally) photography blog in the last month.
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Champagne for the pinot meunier-lover: Beaumont les Crayères
Champagne Beaumont des Crayères is a cooperative winery in Épernay focusing on high-quality Champagne production, particularly from the Pinot Meunier grape. Founded in 1955 by a group of winegrowers, the cooperative emphasizes traditional winemaking techniques combined with modern innovation. The vineyards are located in the Montagne de Reims area, known for its chalky soils, which contribute to the distinct minerality of the wines. Beaumont des Crayères produces a range of Champagnes, including vintage and non-vintage varieties, with a commitment to expressing the terroir of their region.
Read more in Britt’s article on BKWine Magazine, originally published on Forbes: Champagne Beaumont des Crayères, a small cooperative with a focus on pinot meunier | Britt on Forbes.
Travel: Come on a wine tour to Champagne with BKWine. (PS: We’ve written a prize-winning book on Champagne.)
Travelling through Germany to get a preview of coming great wines, first of six articles, part 1
This is a tour of Germany’s wine regions, emphasizing the diverse and high-quality wines produced there. We talk about our visits to some of the top wineries, showcasing the unique characteristics of German wines, including their focus on terroir, innovation, and traditional methods. We also touch on the influence of climate and geography on the region’s wine production, providing insights into the distinct flavours and styles that make German wines stand out in the global market.
Read more in Göran van den Brink’s article on BKWine Magazine: 2023 in Germany separates the chaff from the wheat | German tour, part 1/6.
A wine adventure that one never forgets, the wine tour to Chile and Argentina
On the wine travel blog we have written a little bit longer overview of what the (fantastic) wine tour to Chile and Argentina is like.
“Our Argentina and Chile wine tour is a 14-day immersion in some of the best wine and food in these two South American countries, while enjoying some spectacular scenery and exciting cities. The tour gives you a fascinating insight into the wines and culture of these two neighbouring countries, similar in some ways but also two very different. Argentina, on the east coast is very “European”. The country received millions of immigrants from Europe at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century. At that time, it was one of the world’s richest countries. In Buenos Aires, you can see this on many magnificent buildings constructed around that time, often in a style that makes you think of Rome or Paris. Chile, on the west coast, is much more influenced by North America, both economically and culturally. You can see this, for instance, in the capital, Santiago de Chile where America-style high-rise buildings are common. The tour starts in Buenos Aires and finishes in Santiago so you will get an opportunity to experience this first-hand. But we’re here for the wine and for the gastronomy.”
Read more in Per’s article on the BKWine Wine Travel Blog: Chile and Argentina, the great South American wine adventure. (Book before: September 15.)
Rheingau, acidity, fruit and mineral riesling, 2023, 2nd part
The most northerly of the districts we visited this time is the Rheingau where the river Rhine normally flows quietly in an east-west direction, but this year after the extensive rain, the river barges have to work harder if they are to get down to Basel.
Producers in this episode:
- Jakob Jung, Erbach am Rhein
- Weingut Leitz, Rüdesheim am Rhein/Geisenheim
Read more in Göran van den Brink’s article on BKWine Magazine: Rheingau, acidity, fruit and mineral riesling, 2023 | German tour, part 2/6
Nahe, cool-climate Riesling, 2023, 3rd part
The Nahe is a tributary of the Rhine that empties opposite the mountainous terrain of the Rheingau. The district has a slightly cooler climate thanks to the winds that run along the valleys. So if you like slow-grown riesling, you’ve come to the right place. The highest ranked vineyard since 120 years is Hermannshöhle in Niederhausen where Weingut Dönnhoff makes its top wine.
Producers in this episode:
- Weingut Dönnhoff, Oberhausen an der Nahe
- Weingut Emrich Schönleber, Monzingen
Read more in Göran van den Brink’s article on BKWine Magazine: Nahe, cool-climate Riesling, 2023 | German tour, part 3/6.
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Wine Tours
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Details on our current and future wine tours. Book a wine tour with the “World’s Top Wine Tour Operator” today (or when you feel like travelling to wine country).
Treat yourself to an unforgettable experience in the beautiful wine-lands together with some of the most knowledgeable wine people around. Book now!
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From big-city pulse to never-ending vineyard landscapes, Wine Tour in Chile and Argentina | URGENT!
Our tour to Argentina and Chile is a wine adventure with many unforgettable experiences. The two countries are neighbours but very different. They have different climatic conditions for viticulture, different styles of the wines, different grape varieties, etc. Our tour through South America’s biggest wine countries will give us the opportunity to explore both countries and compare their wines. We start with big city life in Buenos Aires and finish in Santiago de Chile. During the tour we experience tango, Mendoza, Argentina’s largest wine region, and a spectacular bus trip over the Andes, the majestic mountain range that forms the border between the two countries.
We spend a few nights on the Chilean Pacific coast, visiting Valparaiso and Viña del Mar. We meet Chilean wine producers in the Casablanca Valley, San Antonio, Colchagua and Maipo. The producers we visit often offer asado, a South American barbecue with delicious meat, chicken, fish, and vegetables. In the small town of Santa Cruz, we relax with a pisco sour by the pool after a day with wine tastings.
Join us for a wine adventure on the wine tour in Argentina and Chile.
Very urgent to book! Last booking date: September 15!
- Chile-Argentina, 13-26 January 2025
More inspiration: You can get an even better feeling for what you will experience on this tour if you visit the latest tour’s own Facebook group. Lots of pictures and videos from the tour (join the group and you’ll get an update when we post new contents): The wine tour to Chile and Argentina 2023.
South Africa: a tour among (almost) all different wine regions in beautiful surroundings | wine tour
Many wine regions are beautiful and South Africa’s are no exception. The mountains are never far away and depending on the light and the sun they change colour. Many people go to South Africa precisely for the magnificent nature. But the wine is also a good reason. South Africa has so many passionate winemakers and we will meet some of them on the tour. We get to hear their stories, taste their wines.
We start our tour in Cape Town (where we will take the cable car up to Table Mountain) and after two nights there we head to the wine regions: classic Stellenbosch, beautiful Franschhoek, Walker Bay on the south coast with its crisp chardonnay and pinot noir and to the wild and warm Swartland and Tulbagh. We will get to know pinotage, South Africa’s own grape and the South African cuisine, not least the delicious, curry-scented Cape Malay. Our tour is in February when the harvest has started and the weather is warm but not too warm, the best time for a wine tour to South Africa.
Discover South Africa, the fantastic wine country, with us on this fabulous wine tour.
Urgent to book! Last booking date: October 15!
Book now!
More inspiration: You can get an even better feeling for what you will experience on this tour if you visit the latest tour’s own Facebook group. Lots of pictures and videos from the tour (join the group and you’ll get an update when we post new contents): The wine tour to South Africa 2024.
The great wine tour that also offers a lot of nature and culture | wine tour to New Zealand
A wine tour that stands out and is different is our tour to New Zealand. It is our longest tour, giving you extra time to enjoy wine, food and nature. We will explore a large part of the country. New Zealand is far away and we want to show you as much of it as possible.
With our comfortable bus we travel from Auckland on the North Island to Queenstown in beautiful Central Otago on the South Island. During our 16 days we will experience a lot but without being hurried. We take the time to enjoy the landscape and nature of this magnificent country. There will be many stops along the way to visit vineyards, taste wines, meet the winemakers. And other exciting things. We often have lunch at the vineyards, many have exquisite restaurants that offer local delicacies.
We will spend a few hours in the charming capital Wellington, we will see geysers and glaciers, and we will learn more about Maori culture. The wine is in focus, but there will be a good balance during the tour between wine tastings, gastronomy, nature and other experiences.
Come with us to New Zealand for a wine adventure!
A great wine, nature and culture experience on the New Zealand wine tour.
Book now!
More inspiration: You can get an even better feeling for what you will experience on this tour if you visit the latest tour’s own Facebook group. Lots of pictures and videos from the tour (join the group and you’ll get an update when we post new contents): The wine tour to New Zealand 2024.
Two great French wine regions: Burgundy and the Rhône Valley | wine tour
Experience a magnificent wine tour in France through Burgundy, Northern Rhône, and Southern Rhône, where you will enjoy exclusive wines, world-class gastronomy and visit world-famous wine villages. During this 9-day trip, you will taste some of France’s most famous wines and enjoy gourmet cuisine.
We begin our tour in the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy, a place that makes any wine lover dream. We stay in Beaune, a charming and lively town surrounded by vineyards. During three days we visit producers and taste wines from world famous vineyards. Our bus then takes us south to Tain l’Hermitage in the northern Rhône Valley, known for its elegant syrah wines. The tour continues to Avignon, where we spend a few days exploring the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the surrounding villages. This tour offers a perfect combination of wine, food, and culture in some of France’s most iconic wine regions. Program to be published shortly.
Program to be published shortly.
- The Grand French Wine tour to Burgundy, Northern Rhône, and Southern Rhône, 17-25 September, 2025
