The other day we drank a Côtes d’Auvergne that proudly proclaimed “Terroir Volcanique” on the label. Volcanic wines are all the rage right now. Perhaps it started with the Sicilian Etna wines but other regions were quick to catch on.
A French label for volcanic wines is just now taking shape. “Volcanic Origin” will be the name of the label and in its rules it will be well specified which types of volcanic soils the grapes must come from. The label will also be open to non-French wines. The Côte d’Auvergne is in the French Massif Central where 450 extinct volcanoes hide in the beautiful, desolate landscape. The small appellation will probably be the first to receive the label.
What do volcano wines have in common?
Do they all taste the same?
No, hardly.
Soils worldwide with volcanic origin are not particularly alike and there are far too many other factors that affect how the wine tastes. But it is good marketing and will perhaps help obscure regions such as the Côte Auvergne to be able to make their way.
Is there any point to “volcanic wines”?
But one can ask if this trend with “volcanic wines” makes sense. 80% of the world’s surface is of volcanic origin so far more wines than those that have made a trendy name for it are on volcanic soil.
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