A tasting of syrah from four countries
France and Australia are the two major countries producing syrah (or shiraz). But the grape is grown in many countries around the world.
Does the character change depending on where the grapes grow? Absolutely. Compare shiraz from Australia with syrah from the Northern Rhône Valley. The differences will be significant. But you will probably find that they have some features in common.
Northern Rhône
In the Northern Rhône, the wines often have the characteristics most associated with syrah: dark fruit, charcuterie, tar, violets, black pepper. The wines are often oak-aged, in small or bigger barrels, but the oak taste never dominates. The wines will be tannic in their youth but often with a fine balance between the fruit and the tannins.
The wines here are made in small quantities and they are very sought after. Notably, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie are costly wines. But some of them are magnificent. The ageing potential is excellent.
For more affordable Northern Rhône wines look for appellations Crozes-Hermitage and Saint Joseph. Both are 100 % syrah, although a small percentage of white grapes are allowed.
Australia
Shiraz from Australia is more full-bodied, more fruity and warmer in style with a softer tannin structure. You often feel minty aromas. The wines are commonly oak-aged, sometimes too much, depending on your preferences. You will easily find good examples of shiraz from, for instance, Penfolds. Choose something is the middle price range, such as Penfolds Kalimna Bin 28 Shiraz.
South Africa, New Zealand, USA…
Add more countries to the tasting if you want to see even more different nuances of the grapes. You can add cooler Washington State where Charles Smith makes some brilliant wines in Walla Walla. He has chosen to call the grape syrah, which may indicate that he is more into the French style than the Australian.
New Zealand also produces some delicious syrah. Look for Elephant Hill and Unison Vineyard in Hawke’s Bay.
In South Africa, they also prefer to call the grape syrah. You will find some great ones from Boschkloof, Waterkloof, Kaapzicht and Reyneke in Stellenbosch, Saronsberg in Tulbagh, Glenwood in Franschhoek and many more.
