News from the Oenoforo’s range
It is often outside the well-established segments that wine lovers can find the most interesting drinks. The regular big grocery stores’ ranges are often dominated by volume products, which are more often than not underwhelming. BKWine Magazine’s reporter Sven-Olof Johansson had the opportunity to taste a large selection of odd and unusual wines in the Oenoforos’ range this autumn. Here you will get his selection of what he thought was the most exciting wines.
The hand on your heart, you are quite happy when your guests pay attention to the bottle you have chosen. Not only saying some polite words of appreciation but also showing their curiosity about what you’ve pulled the cork on. Lifting the bottle, turning and reading. Picking up the mobile phone and snapping a picture. If so, I suggest you purchase a Bellavista Franciacorta. Cold fresh fruit, light golden apples, brioche, citrus and flowers. Lovely acidity, long taste with fresh fruit. Franciacorta is poorly represented in Sweden which is a pity since it is often much more interesting than a prosecco. A nice little talking-piece to have on ice at your dinner party.
My prejudice against orange wine may well be based on cheap alternatives, served in a glass in some bar with more enthusiasm than knowledge. The unwillingness to something a second try precludes new discoveries. However, after tasting Claude Quenard, Chignin les 1er Recoltants 366/1800, 2015 it’s time to rethink my hesitation. This is well made, lots of interesting details. Clear intense colour, a nose with hints of old glue, refreshing nuttiness and character. The taste has a hint of dry fino, clean, and well controlled, distinct acidity and good length. The character is so distinct that I would choose to serve it with something to eat. Mild salami maybe or hard, aged cheeses.
Staying on the more unusual wine choices, you can bet your new car against someone picking the correct grape variety when they get this wine blind. Yves Lecia, L’Altru Biacu 2016. A nice nutty start, someone mentioned a hint of riesling-type diesel (kerosene), yes that’s not far off, deliciously buttery, long flavour and soft and long acidity. My thoughts go straight to grilled white fish. Different in a very nice way. Ah, yes, the grape variety. It’s called biancu gentile and is grown on Corsica.
If the three wines mentioned above create debate at the table, the next wine is more like an old friend coming back, but now with a new vintage. Palmer & Co Brut 2012. A wine that, on good grounds, has taken a prominent place among the moderately priced champagnes. Classic touches of crispy dry tones with yellow apples, a little nougat and a fresh, refreshing minerality.
Finally, I have to say a few words about a very charming Swedish “glögg” (a kind of glühwein). This usually overly sweetish drink starts appearing in a number of really nice versions. Giulio Cocchi, Lucia Chokladglögg, has, in my opinion, a somewhat misleading title, as I cannot find as much chocolate as one might expect. When the cork was pulled a spicy scent spread in the room. Tastes of fresh raisins with cold sweetness, backed by a well-balanced acidity and hints of orange. Beautiful viscosity and delicious aromas, cocoa tones, not chocolate. We drank it a few degrees below room temperature and I would definitely not warm it before serving (which is the traditional way of serving it).
Sven-Olof Johansson is a wine enthusiast in Stockholm with a long history of wine tasting experience.
