30 wineries ― or 130
Israel boasts 30 commercial wineries of which 10 actively export, and nearly 130 boutique wineries. It’s also one of the smallest of all wine producing countries, with correspondingly small interest from the government to support it. The intifada and generally depressed economy has placed greater pressure upon winemakers to export, but with no governmental body marketing their wine abroad, Israel wine producers remain at a disadvantage in export markets. The country even lacks an oversight or regulatory body, and no appellation system exists.
The Carmel Winery and The Handcrafted Wines
As a result of this dilemma the Carmel winery, controlling 50% of Israel’s entire production, has taken upon itself the task of advancing the Israel brand worldwide. Since assuming his position in 2002 as CEO, Carmel’s David Ziv in February 2004 initiated Handcrafted Wines of Israel (HWI), an elite group of small wineries.
Domaine du Castel, ranked by the world’s most famous wine journalist Hugh Johnson as the best in Israel, was the first to join and was soon followed by a further eight wineries representing different regions from Bazelet ha Golan on the Golan Heights, to Yatir Winery, Carmel’s new joint venture boutique winery situated in the Judean Mountains.
Booming Merlot and the birth of a quality push
The worldwide wine boom of the mid-’90s didn’t miss Israel. Plantings of new grapes doubled in the past ten years, with the ubiquitous Merlot enjoying the fastest growth.
Carmel, along with other HWI member wineries, have just begun responding to a country-wide grape glut by replacing high-yielding varieties with those of high quality, while strongly pursuing a yield reduction program via green pruning and more judicious irrigation. Israel, like its closed-border neighbor to the north, Lebanon, enjoys little vintage variation so quality is relatively consistent. In such a relatively warm climate it’s no surprise that production of red wines is double that of white.
Kosher or not Kosher, and organic
These wineries showcase the variety of Israeli wine by representing a different wine region and their vineyards’ own unique terroir. The wines have all the character and individuality of a handcrafted wine looked after by an individual winemaker from the vineyard to the bottle. They represent the styles of winemakers who studied in both new world countries such as Australia and California as well as in the old world of France and Italy.
Differences extend to ‘kashrut’ – some are kosher, whilst others are not. The country has even seen its first single-vineyard organic Chardonnay which Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov, in the book Wine Report 2005, hopes will “pave the way for future organic developments.”
Time for an international marketing push
Adam Montefiore, Carmel’s international marketing director, represents HWI in export markets. “Few people really appreciate how good Israeli wines have become. Our objective is to take the very best of Israel to the outside world to ensure Israeli wines receive the respect they deserve.” HWI unveiled itself at VinItaly in April 2004. Since then HWI has been exported to seven countries including Canada, England, France, Poland, Russia, Switzerland, and Sweden.
The purpose of this cooperation is to advance the image of quality of Israel as a wine producing country. The wineries will be represented at wine exhibitions, tastings, and other joint marketing activities and are in the planning stages of hosting press trips. There’s little doubt that most of HWI’s 2005 efforts will be centered around its number one export market of the US, with number 2 UK to receive some attention due to its greater proximity.
“Carmel has made huge improvements in their wines across the board,” said Charles Stanfield, Kosher and Israel wine buyer at Chicago’s Sam’s Wines & Spirits. “Galil Mountain winery makes the best Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot I have tasted in ten years!”
Israeli wine for every day drinking
Overcoming consumers’ tendency to drink Israeli wines only during Jewish holidays or only when in the company of Israelis or other Jews will be one of the greatest difficulties that HWI will be facing. Israel’s depressed economy notwithstanding, wineries are reluctant to lower prices for fear they’ll lose brand positioning. If they maintain this pricing strategy all the marketing push in the world will not gain them serious consideration from buyers with a world of wine to choose from.
―David Furer
Foot Note: Handcrafted Wines of Israel’s members are:
- Amphorae Vineyard, Makura Ranch — Upper Galilee, Shomron
- Bazelet ha Golan, Moshav Kidmat Zvi — Golan Heights
- Chillag Wine, Central Coast – Upper Galilee
- Domaine du Castel, Ramat Raziel – Judean Hills
- Flam Winery, Ginaton – Upper Galilee, Samson
- Margalit Winery, Hadera – Upper Galilee, Shomron
- Saslove Winery, Kibbutz Eyal – Upper Galilee
- Tzora Vineyards, Kibbutz Tzora – Samson, Judean Hills
- Yatir Winery, Tel Arad – Judean Hills, Negev
© Copyright David Furer & BKWine
