Some Recommended Wine Producers

BKWine is independent from all producers. The list of producers presented below is an entirely personal selection of winemakers that we find interesting. And it is not in any way intended to be exhaustive. Many producers that we like a lot and who would deserve to be here are missing because we have not yet written about them. Many others would also deserve to be here but we have not yet had the opportunity to taste (and write about) their wines....

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Alsace

Domaine Pierre Frick, Pfaffenheim, Alsace
www.pierrefrick.com

Domaine Pierre Frick was one of the first biodynamic producers that we got to know. Their wines are full-bodied and full of flavour. Some are made entirely without sulphur (which is very unusual). It is not easy to make wine completely without sulphur but Jean-Pierre and Chantal Frick know how to do it. Making wine without sulphur gives the wines a different character that may not appeal to everyone – more subtle and soft character, less young, fresh fruit (only some of the Frick wines are without sulphur). They have 12 hectares and make some 30 different cuvees. All wines are closed with a crown cap (beer bottle style). They tried various closures and decided that the crown cap was the ideal (“millions of champagne bottles can’t be wrong”). The wines are over-all very well balanced, some have a little residual sugar but it is matched by a high acidity. Try the Riesling Bihl, Riesling Grand Cru Vorburg, Riesling Cuvée Précieuses and the excellent Pinot Noir Les Terrasses and Pinot Noir Strangenberg. (Brief 72, July 09)

Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss
Andlau, Alsace, www.kreydenweiss.com

Marc Kreydenweiss is one of our big favourites in Alsace. He’s an outstanding winemaker and with biodynamic agriculture and low yields (in a region where producers often harvest 80 hl/ha) he produces excellent, complex wines with a depth that few others achieve. You find him in the small village Andlau a short distance north of Colmar, along the very beautiful route de vin. He has a modest 10 ha around the village in some of the best locations, e.g. Grand Cru Moenchberg and GC Kastelberg where he makes a supreme Riesling. Kreydenweiss, together with his wife Emmanuelle, also makes excellent red wine in the Domaine des Perrières property in Costières de Nîmes in southern Rhône. Click here for address and more recommendations. (Brief 60)

Corsica

Corsica is making great progress in wine. Quality is still sometimes unpredictable (but where is that not the case?) but you can find plenty of good wines, both white, red and sweet.

Patrimonio, in northern Corsica, is home to many of the best Corsican wines. The chalky soil is good for wine growing, the winds are less strong compared to some other places. There is no co-operative on this part of the island. The 32 wineries share the 450 hectares. You can also find sweet white wines from this part of Corsica but then they are called Muscat du Cap Corse.

Jean-Paul Gentile, Domaine Gentile
AC Patrimonio, 20217 Saint-Florent, ph 04 95 37 01 54

Niellucciu is the dominant grape in Patrimonio. It is a grape variety that is related to the Sangiovese, found in Tuscany, which is sometimes quite evident. The vintage 2002 from Domaine Gentile has exactly the characteristics that I find typical in Corsican wines: full-bodied, with a fair amount of tannin and a hint of “animal” (game, leather…). Domaine Gentile’s white wine is made from Vermentino (called Rolle in Provence) and is dry and refreshing with a contrasting earthy or mineral character. In general, Corsican wines actually have more elegance than one might expect from a district so far south. Perhaps it is the high altitude and the strong winds that moderate the otherwise high temperatures.

Clos Signadore
AC Patrimonio, 20232 Poggio d’Oletta, ph 06 15 18 29 81

A relative newcomer in Patrimonio is Clos Signadore. They made their first vintage in 2001. Eresi 2005, made from 80% Niellucciu and 20% Grenache, is a quaffable, easygoing wine while the cuvée prestige, called simply Clos, with 100% Niellucciu is more typically Corsican with flavours of spices and herbs and even juniper. Quite elegant and very good.

Yves Leccia, Domaine d'E Croce 
AC Patrimonio, 20232 Poggio d’Oletta, ph 04 95 30 72 33

Another (new) recommended producer in Patrimonio is Yves Leccia, making wine on 12 hectares. He makes a very attractive white Vermentino with quite a lot of “fat” (‘gras’ in French, giving the wine a round, soft and full-bodied character) but also a fresh acidity. He uses no oak and he dos not let the wine go through the malolactic fermentation. He makes several red wines, e.g. “Patrimonio 2004” from 90% Niellucciu and 10% Grenache. Here the relation to Sangiovese is very apparent: a certain dryness and aromas of cherry stones, a high acidity and a good body.
(Brief 34)

Provence

Domaine de Triennes, Provence
Route Nationale 560, 83860 Nans-les-Pins, www.triennes.com

Triennes is a property that has attracted quite a lot of attention lately although it carries the quite modest appellation of Vin de Pays du Var. But you should not be fooled by the humble origin – the wines are excellent and interesting and we would be surprised if they were not. The winery was founded by two Burgundy legends: Aubert de Villaine (Domaine de la Romanée Conti), Jacques Seysses (Domaine Dujac in Morey St Denis), together with Michel Macaux. In 1990 they bought a rather run-down property between Aix-en-Provence and Brignoles and gave it the name Triennes, after the name used for a roman wine feast (and perhaps the fact that they were three partners?). They did some replanting with Chardonnay on soil that was similar to Burgundy, Syrah on soil that was more iron and clay rich, and Merlot on a flat but well drained plot that reminded them of St Emilion. Domaine de Triennes now makes very good wines at very affordable prices – the powerful and well structured Cuvée Sainte Auguste, made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Les Auréliens from Syrah and Cabernet, and the white Sainte Fleure from Viognier, a full-bodied wine with a fresh acidity and notes of ripe apricot and flowers. (Brief 48)

Château Vannières, Bandol
www.chateauvannieres.com
This beautiful property is in one of the best know appellations by the Mediterranean: Bandol. They have a young and dynamic winemaker, Jean-Philippe Fourney, who is continuing, and enhancing Vannières’ tradition of making excellent, full-bodied Bandol wines that often need some bottle age. Made from the interesting Mourvèdre grape variety. The property covers a total of 33 hectares of vineyards. (Brief 41)

Domaine de La Tour du Bon, Bandol
83330 Le Brûlat du Castellet, tel 04 98 03 66 22
La Tour du Bon is in the small Mediterranean appellation of Bandol. The 17 hectares are beautifully situated at the foot of the hilltop village Le Castellet (and with a view over the sea a clear day!). Lots of sun and vines growing on a soil dominated by clay and limestone gives powerful wines full of individual character. The owner and winemaker, Agnès Henry-Hocquard blends the archetypical Bandol grape Mourvèdre with some Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. Just Mourvèdre gives wines that are a bit one-dimensional, she says. 14 euro for the 2003 vintage at the winery
(Brief 39)

Languedoc

Domaine des Terres Georges, Minervois
www.domaineterresgeorges.com

Three years ago we discovered this winery when we were researching our book on the Languedoc wines. We asked one of the producers we met if he had any personal recommendations and that’s how we got their name! And when we recently re-tasted their wines we can only conclude that their search for perfection continues and makes progress. The wines are exceptionally well made and very delicious. Roland and Anne-Marie Coustal have 12 ha in the southern part of Minervois. Their first vintage was 2001, after taking over Anne-Marie’s family’s vineyards. They still do all the work themselves, except for the harvest. A new cuvée is the Et Cetera. ”It’s our entry level wine and it’s very successful”, says Anne-Marie, ”many wine shops buys this one first and then they discover our other wines”. It is made from 60% carignan and 35% grenache and is very drinkable, unoaked with good fruit and structure and a bit of the typical Languedoc herbs and spices (5.50 euro). Very good is the Racines 2007 from 100% carignan, lots of character fruit, elegance – a genuine Languedoc. Exceptional value for money at 9.75 euro. Quintessens 2007 is a 100% syrah, dense structure, long and good complexity on the palate. The varietal character does not dominate; the wine is still very much from the Languedoc. (Brief 80, March-10)

Domaine Monplezy, Pezenas, Languedoc
www.domainemonplezy.fr

They make Vin de Pays des Cotes de Thongue, one of the better known vin de pays denominations in the Languedoc. Grapes are mainly syrah, grenache, carignan, cinsault, merlot, roussanne and marsanne. They have 22 ha of vineyards with not very fertile soil (which is of course good for the quality of the wine). It is beautifully located, surrounded by the typical Languedoc garrigue with it aromatic herbs. The Languedoc flag flutters in the wind in the yard and the wines have a very definite Languedoc character. Good fruit and generous wines. Try for instance the cuvée Felicité that they harvest by hand, made from carignan, grenache and syrah. It gets a short aging in oak barrels. Spicy aromas mixed with some liquorice and freshly roast coffee. Perfect with a roast leg of lamb or grilled lamb chops!  (Brief 76, Nov-09)

Domaine Grand Lauze, Ferrals de Corbières
www.grand-lauze.fr

This is a 22 ha big estate in Boutenac, one of the best areas in the Corbières. The vines are old. Some carignans and grenaches are over 100 years old. 80% of production is AOC and the remainder is Vin de Pays. Xavier Ledogar is the winemaker. He has a passionate interest in the soil and in his vines. You feel right away that this will be individualistic wines full of character. Which indeed they are when you taste them. Together with his younger brother Xavier, he makes white and red wines with a very distinct Languedoc stamp on them, as well as having depth and complexity. Taste for instance the La Compagnon 2007, a Corbières made from 50% mourvèdre and the rest a mix of carignan, syrah and grenache. A very nice wine with flavours of the local herbs, good fruit and freshness and lots of personality. “I try and make something special”, says Xavier, “I adapt to what nature gives me”. With excellent results.  (Brief 75, Oct-09)

Domaine Grand Guilhem, Fitou, Cascastel
www.grandguilhem.com

In the mountainous part of Fitou, in the small village of Cascastel, on the border to Corbières, that’s where we find Gilles Contrepois (an exiled Parisian) at Domaine Grand Guilhem. He and his wife completely changed their lifestyle a few years back when they settled here among the vines and the aromatic garrigue shrub. They have 12 ha of vineyards in four different appellations: Fitou, Corbières, Rivesaltes and Muscat de Rivesaltes. The grow the vines organically and try and emphasise the terroir expression in the wines. Taste for example his Fitou 2007, fermented with natural yeast, made from 47% carignan grapes, and you will get a wonderfully garrigue-herbs wine, fruity, with good acidity and structure. A Fitou when it is as it should be. (Brief 75, Oct-09)

Domaine l’Oustal Blanc, La Livinière, Minervois, Languedoc
www.oustal-blanc.com

We’ve stopped counting all the exciting wineries we discover in the Languedoc. But among the interesting ones there are some that stick in memory and stand out. L’Oustal Blanc in Minervois is one of those. The owner is called Claude Fonquerle. He is a very skilled winemaker and often quite unorthodox. Several of his wines are made without the AOC Minervois because he doesn’t agree with the appellation rules. “K”, for example, is made from 100% carignan and is a Vin de Table (so it can’t say carignan on the label at the moment – but rules are changing). It’s made from 35 year old vines, so there’s nothing simple about this wine. The wines Claude make have both elegance and finesse. And tasting them one cannot help feeling a certain resemblance to (or inspiration from) other wine regions. And quite correctly so – Claude worked for ten years in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and is fascinated by Burgundy. His different cuvees, all with names inspired my musical words, are excellent. His light and elegant Naïck for example, or the very well structured Giocoso. And of course the full-bodied and well balanced Prima Donna.

Château d'Anglès, Languedoc La Clape,
www.chateaudangles.com

La Clape is an appellation not far from Narbonne, on the Mediterranean. It’s a limestone rock that was once an island, mixed with red clay and stones, more stones than anyone would wish for. The area is a protected nature reserve that mixes the garrigue wildlife and vineyards. And it is one of France’s sunniest spots! You can find several excellent producers here. One is Château d’Anglès. It was bought by the Fabre family in 2001. Eric Fabre had worked as winemaker in the Médoc in Bordeaux but dreamed about having his own vineyard by the Mediterranean. Now he works with his son Arnaud and they make some very good wines. One is the white they make from they grape variety bourboulenc, typical for La Clape. Their red wine is full-bodied, partially due to a long skin contact. It has the typical aromas of herbs and spices (“garrigue style”), and ripe berries. A touch of mint, typical for La Clape. (Brief 73, Aug-09)

Château Ricardelle, Languedoc-La Clape
www.chateau-ricardelle.com

After having worked for Cinzano in Swizerland and as a wine buyer sourcing wine for German sekt producers, Bruno Pellegrini decided to study oenology to be able to start his own winery. In 1990 he arrived in La Clape and discovered Château Ricardelle, with 45 ha of vineyards, for sale. The deal was done. His favourite grapes are carignan and grenache. “They can take the heat and the dry climate much better than the syrah” he says. The “visiting card” of the chateau is the wine called Château Ricardelle La Clape, a grenache-carignan blend that costs some 7 euro at the winery. It is well structured without “make-up”, with character from the wild herbs growing around the vineyard. Pellegrini also makes a very good white from bourboulenc, roussanne and grenache blanc – complex, chewy (“gras”) and flowery. “Pellegrini” is an easy-to-like mix of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and the new grape variety marselan. The Closablières (9.50 euro) has been very well received by the market and is an oak-aged syrah-based wine with dark fruit, cocoa and wood in the character. A wine for the winter in front of the oak fire, says Bruno. He also makes several other cuvées well worth tasting. (Brief 72, July 09)

Domaine de la Bouysse, Corbières, Languedoc
www.domainedelabouysse.fr 

Martine Pagès and Christophe Molinier are both trained oenologists. They run this 50 ha family property in the Corbières in Languedoc. They have 10 ha in the sub-appellation Boutenac with its stony soil. They took over the responsibility for the property in 1996 and immediately started a restructuring of the estate to improve the quality of the wines. They planted syrah and mourvèdre (adding to the 50-80 year old carignan and grenache they had) and started reducing the yields. They have developed a range of Vin de Pays wines (viognier, chardonnay, merlot) and AOC Corbières rose and red. The wines are very well made and very reasonably priced. Mazerac Corbières 2005 is concentrated with aromas of vanilla, cocoa and dried figs (8 euro). The Viognier 2006 is excellent, flowery, full-bodied with aromas of apricot (5 euro), and Roc Long Corbières 2006 has the typical garrigue expression (herbs and spices) with ripe fruit but retaining a fresh acidity (6 euro). (Brief 66, Jan-09)

Château Prieuré Borde Rouge, Languedoc
www.borde-rouge.com

Chateau Prieuré Borde Rouge is well on its way to join the big names of the Languedoc. They have already received numerous prizes for their very elegant and fruit-filled wines. The property comprises 23 hectares close to the town of Lagrasse. It’s in an excellent location, protected in what is shaped like an amphitheatre and shielded by the surrounding mountains. Their white Carminal Blanc 2007 is made from Grenache blanc, maccabeu and clairette with four months oak aging. A full-bodied wine with some “fat” (what the French call ‘gras’, a mouth filling and entirely positive characteristic) and a good acidity with exotic fruits and apples. One of their reds that particularly caught my attention was the Rubellis 2006 made primarily from carignan and grenache. Typically Languedocien in style, with herbs (the local “garrigue”) and dark fruit, blackberries and black currants. Good level of acidity and well balanced and elegant completes the picture. But all their wines are good, not to forget the syrah-based prestige cuvee called Ange. (Brief 65, Dec-08)

Cave d’Embres et Castelmaure, Corbières, Languedoc
1360 Embres et Castelmaure, Corbieres, tel.: 04 68 45 91 83

To reach the village of Emres et Castelmaure (yes, that's how its called) you have to follow narrow, winding roads, beautiful and remote and full of game hunters in season… To arrive in the village and find a cooperative that is modern, not to say trendy, is not quite what you expect. but Cave d'Embres et Castelmaure has succeeded in convincing its members (les cooperateurs) that to survive today you have to focus on quality. The wines are very good, starting with the nice and easy-to-drink La Buvette to the more serious la Grande Cuvée and Cuvée N:o 3. The labels are decidedly modern, perhaps designed with younger drinkers in mind, as are the bag-in-boxes. Now they can even boast a brand new architecture designed winery. Some call it "un Guggenheim des Corbières"… (Brief 59)

Ermitage de Pic Saint Loup, Languedoc
34270 Saint-Mathieu-de-Tréviers

An excellent producer in the beautiful Pic St Loup area a bit north of Montpellier. The Ravaille family owns the property since a few hundred years back. The current generation is the fifth with the tree brothers Jean-Marc, Xavier and Pierre in charge. They have 35 ha with a great variety in soil types giving added complexity to the wines. Two of my favourites are the Cuvée Classique made from grapes grown on red clay and gravel. The wine is concentrated with a bouquet of red berries and garrigue (herbs, thyme, laurel…), and the Cuvée St Agnès, grown on limestone with some rocks, giving a dense, concentrated wine with lots of herbs and minerality and a spicy finish. All their wines are very well structured. (Brief 58)

Mas Champart, Saint-Chinian
Bramefan – Route de Villespassans, Saint-Chinian,

Isabelle and Mathieu Champart is a charming wine maker couple who fell in love with the spectacular scenery in Saint Chinian, one of the appellations in the Languedoc region, a bit to the north of Béziers. They make both red and, more unusual for the region, whites. Their whites have an excellent acidity and freshness in spite of the very hot climate. Their Vin de Pays is made from 100% Viognier with nice fruit and quite aromatic – as it should be. The white Saint Chinian is made from Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc, giving it a complexity and body mixed with a hint of oak aging. They also make excellent reds of course. My favourite is the cuvee Côte d'Arbo, lots of spices in this wine made primarily from Syrah grapes. (Brief 57)

Domaine de la Coste, Coteaux du Languedoc – Saint Christol
Phone 33 (0)4 67 86 02 10 Fax 33(0)4 67 86 07 71, www.la-coste-moynier.fr

Luc was the first to realize the great potential in the soils around Saint-Christol, a terroir just north-east of Montpellier. Luc and Elisabeth Moynier created Domaine de la Coste in 1975. Their grapes grow in poor soil that is difficult to work, filled with stones much like the galets in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. And the vineyard creates some quite rustic wines whereas others are much more elegant. Luc’s and Elisabeth’s favourite grape is Mourvèdre. Wines worth seeking out today before they get pricey (which they are far from today!). (Brief 54)

Château de l’Engarran, Lavérune
www.chateau-engarran.com

The two sisters Constance Rerolle and Diane Losfelt are the third generation of women who manage the vineyard and the beautiful 18th century chateau in Lavérune just outside Montpellier. The family didn’t bottle their own wine until 1978 but has since become one of the better known properties in Languedoc. Elegance as well as body are keywords for their wines, expressed e.g. in the cuvee Quetton Saint Georges made from 80% Syrah with aromas of chocolate, ripe berries and freshly roasted coffee. (Brief 54)

Domaine des Grécaux, Languedoc, Monteyroux
Isabelle and Alain Caujolle-Gazet, 34150 Saint-Jean-de-Fos, tel 04 67 57 38 83

Alain and Isabelle Caujolle-Gazet settled to make wine in Montpeyroux in Languedoc in 1998. Today they have 11 hectares, 7 of which are on very poor soil (and thus good for wine growing) on the Montpeyroux plateau and this is the source of their cuvée Héméra. This is an excellent example of this peculiar Montpeyroux terroir, says Alain. Héméra is made from 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache. The style is densely concentrated with typical aromas of Syrah – charcuteri, spices and dark berries. Try it, or any other of the Grécaux wines, if you can find it! (Brief 52)

Château de Lascaux, Vaquières, Coteaux du Languedoc-Pic Saint Loup
www.chateau-lascaux.com

In Pic Saint Loup, a short drive north of Montpellier in the Languedoc region in France, you can find many high quality wine producers. One of those is Ch Lascaux, a family vineyard run by Jean-Benoît Cavalier. The property covers 53 hectares, the soil is, as often in this region, very poor. The well balanced wines are characterised by an aromatic complexity and a refreshing acidity. They make several cuvées, for example the white Pierre d’Argent made from Vermentino, Rousanne and Marsanne. Or the red Les Secrets, made from Syrah and Grenache grapes with very low yield: spicy and full-bodied. (Brief 50)

Mas de Perry, Coteaux du Languedoc
Murles, tel 04 67 84 40 89

Geneviève and Didier Ponson-Nicot and the two children manage this charming family property just north of Montpellier. Stéphanie, the daughter is responsible for the wine making and Olivier, the son, for the vineyards. They make a very good Grenache Blanc-Marsanne cuvée and a very unusual and interesting on 100% Ugni Blanc – late harvest (but it’s a dry wine) and 3 hectolitres per hectare… Mas de Perry is probably a domain that we will hear more of in the future. (Brief 49)

Château Pech Latt, Philippe Mathias, Corbières
11220 Lagrasse, Tel + 33 (0) 4 68 58 11 40

A narrow road from the village Lagrasse in the Corbières leads to Chateau Pech Latt, owned by the Burgundy house Louis Max. The winery and vineyard is manage by the enthusiastic oenolog Philippe Mathias. It’s a big vineyard – 120 ha, 100 of which are planted with vines – all in a single plot, and without any close neighbours. “An advantage”, says Philippe “when you want to run the vineyard organically”, which they do since 1991. 90% of the production goes o export. “Selling Languedoc wines in France is difficult. The French ’drink the label’” Philippe explains, using the expression “buveurs d’etiquettes” – all the worse for the French we can only say. Balance is a central theme for the Philippe, balance in the vineyard, between different plants and animals, and balance in the wine cellar. Pech Latt Cuvée Tradition make up 85% of the production, made from 50% Carignan and some Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. A wine with distinct typicity, deep colour and powerful bouquet, a good structure with quite a healthy dose of ripe tannins and notes of the local garrigue herbs. Other cuvées: Vieille Vignes, dominated by Carignan, and Cuvée Alix that has been aged 16 months in wood. Excellent and good value wines. (Brief 48)

Domaine d’Aupilhac, Sylvain Fadat
34150 Montpeyroux, tel 04 67 96 61 19, www.aupilhac.net

Sylvain Fadat prefers to spend his time in the field. That’s where the important work is done, in his opinion. He’s one of the stars in the Languedoc, with Domaine d’Aupilhac that he created in 1989, north west of Montpellier. At that time, Languedoc still had a low-quality, big-volume reputation and Sylvain became one of the pioneers in on the path towards higher quality. He understood the fantastic potential, there to be discovered, in the vineyards around his home village – Montpeyroux. Today he makes a wide range of wines, both white and red, and all have lots of substance and personality. For example, his cuvées from very old vines of Carignan and Cinsault.   (Brief 47)

Clos Centeilles, Languedoc
34210 Siran, tel 04 68 91 52 18

Daniel and Patricia Domergue consider Cinsault to be the best grape in the whole of Languedoc! And also the most typical. Grenache and Carignan are both newcomers, introduced after the phylloxera crisis, they say. They bought the run down Clos Centeilles in 1990 with 10 hectares of Cinsault, Carigan and Grenache. Already the very first vintage they were impressed by the quality they had from Carignan. Now they make tow Cinsault cuvées, Campagne de Centeilles and Capitelle de Centeilles, as well as one more “traditional” blend on Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, the Clos Centeilles. Le Carignissime is an original cuvée from 100% Carignan.(Brief 44)

Domaine Piccinini, Minervois-La Livinière, Languedoc
 www.domaine-piccinini.com

Jean-Christophe’s father, Maurice Piccinini, was for many years in charge of the village co-operative in La Livinière and turned it into one of the best in Minervois. He was also a driving force behind Minervois being elevated to AOC status and subsequently La Livinière. The son, J-C, trained as oenologist and wanted from the start to make and bottle his own wines. His wines are today among the “safe bets” for excellent wines from Minervois. Try and find, for example, his Clos Angély, that he makes in both red and white version (or any other of his cuvées for that matter). (Brief 42)

Domaine Coume del Mas, Collioure

Coume del Mas is close to the village Cousprou, between Collioure and Banyuls. The soil is poor, dominated by slate that gives a strong backbone and fresh acidity to the wines. The main grape variety is Grenache. The property is built up of many small plots acquired over the last ten years by the owner Philippe Gard. Some are close to the sea; others are at 300 m altitude inland, facing east. Here the climate is a bit cooler than by the sea, especially at night. But even the plots close to the sea get a bit of freshness from the sea breezes. The yields are low, very low – only 10 to 15 hl/ha! The wines are, of course, concentrated. (Brief 62)

Domaine Roc des Anges, Côtes de Roussillon

Marjorie Gallet was only 23 when she in 2001, without a penny in her pocket, decided to settle in Roussillon to become winegrower. She had an opportunity to buy an old property of 10 ha thirty kilometres north of Perpignan and has added some land since so she now has 20 ha. But she only makes 45,000 bottles each year since her yields are miniscule, not more than 16 hl/ha. This is, she says, because the vines are old and the soil is very poor, and the climate is hot and very windy. Perhaps we need to add to that her ambition to make very concentrated and well constructed wines? Try for instance the Roc des Anges 2006 Segna de Cor. A full-bodied, powerful wine but that retains a lot of fruit mixed with aromas of chocolate, tobacco, leather and ripe grapes.  (Brief 62)

Cellier des Dominicains, Collioure, Roussillon
www.dominicain.com

A quality-oriented co-operative (especially in recent times) in the middle of the very picturesque village of Collioure. The winery is in what was previously a Dominican monastery from the 13th century. They have put in place a system that encourages the growers-cooperatuers to improve the maturation and quality of their grapes. As everyone in this region they do a Vin Doux Naturel (fortified wine) under the Banyuls appellation but they also make some "normal" red cuvees, e.g. the Colline de Matisse (2007 for 7€), a decent, easy-to drink red wine with good freshness, or the Les Culottes (2006, 9.50€), a well made fruity wine with aromas of ripe berries. (Brief 58)

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Domaine de Pialentou, Gaillac
www.domainedepialentou.com

Domaine de Pialentou is a family owned property in the appellation Gaillac in the French South-West, near Toulouse. It is beautifully situated in the small village of Brens by the river Tarn. The Gervais family started to convert it to organic farming in 2007 and this year (2010) they will get their certificate. Now they have grass growing between the vines, making for less compact soil and natural fertiliser. They have planted hedges to attract “good” insects. They have 12.5 ha and make several different cuvees. They use several local and not very well known grape varieties, as is often the case in this region. And they even have a Swedish connection: the mother of Agnès Gervais, who runs it today, is Swedish. A favourite of ours is the white Mauzac Blanc Sec, made from the local grape of the same name. Very good, appely with individuality. Unfortunately only made in small quantities. Some of their reds can be a bit rustic, worth looking for is e.g. the Nuance de Cocagne, a syrah wine with spice, mixed with the local braucol and duras grapes. Or Les Gentilles Pierres where braucol gives a lot of fruit and merlot gives roundness, and cabernet sauvignon gives structure, with some spice added with the syrah. Gaillac is a little known district that is certainly worth discovering. (Brief 80, March-10)

Domaine de Ferrand, Côtes de Duras

Denis and Marie-Thérèse Vuillion were getting close to retirement and started to think of what to do with “the rest” of their life. They found the answer in a 13 ha vineyard in Côtes de Duras. As part of the deal they also got 9 ha of plum trees (the region is well known for its “pruneaux d’Agen”, dried plums). “Duras might be a small appellation”, says Denis, “but there are great variations in terroir, which makes it interesting to aim for quality wines. And even if the appellations are not well known when people come here and taste they are very positive”. Tasting their different wines my attention was particularly caught by an aromatic Sauvignon Blanc 2005 with good length in the mouth (3.50 euro), a red unpretentious Domaine de Ferrand 2005, entirely without oak aging, with lots of fruit but with a nice tannic touch at the finish (4 euro), and a sweet Moelleux 2005 made from late-harvested grapes partially affected by botrytis (noble rot). Very good with aromas of honey and a refreshing acidity (8 euro). (Brief 64)

Cave Berticot, Côtes de Duras
www.berticot.com

A small co-operative with some 1000 hectares. They have invested heavily in quality development in recent years and now work closely together with the individual growers. Stephan Clement, the winemaker, comes from Champagne and finds it quite natural that things work very differently here. He has introduced pigeage in 18 of the fermentation tanks. this ‘pushing down the cap’ (pushing down skins and pips that float to the surface into the must during fermentation) gives increased extraction, more than remontage (pumping over). It is much more common in e.g. Burgundy than in this region. The white Duc de Berticot 2003 has been aged for 9 months in oak barrels; it has a good balance, some citrus-sweet aromas on the nose and lots of vitality. The red Défendu (=the forbidden) 2005 is made from old vines, primarily merlot, is fruity, quite full-bodied and very nice (9 euro). (Brief 64)

Domaine des Allegrets, Côtes de Duras

Julien Blanchard is young but already a very accomplished winemaker and we will no doubt hear more about him in the future, if I am not entirely mistaken. His wines are very well made, with both complexity and balance. He owns 60 ha and half of his production is white (overall, they make quite a lot of white wine in Duras). His white Divine Alliance 2007 (an ‘alliance’ between sauvignon blanc and the barrique) was made with skin contact initially and barrel aging on the lees. The result is a full-bodied wine with aromas of grapefruit, flowers, peach, and with a good freshness. The red Voyage d’Oenos 2005 (the year Julien got married; ‘voyage de noce’=honeymoon) is well structured but also very easy to drink. The sweet Moelleux 1999 was made from 100 year old vines with Semillon grapes with noble rot (botrytis). It fermented and then aged in barrique for 24 months and is heavenly delicious with touches of apricot and orange peel and still a very refreshing acidity (20 euro). (Brief 64)

Vignoble Tour de Verdots, AOC Bergerac
Conne de Labarde

David Fourtout is the winemaker and owner of this excellent winery in Bergerac, a little bit east of Bordeaux. In the recently built winery building he has installed specially designed fermentation tanks to achieve the characters he wants. One floor down, underground, he has the barrel cellar that where you can get a close look at the soil thanks to the naked walls, as well as a curious underground river. He makes arrange of wines from modestly priced every day drinking wines to very ambitious super-cuvées. Don't miss his "Le Vin selon David Fourtout" (The Wine according to DF)!  Watch the interview with David on BKWine TV! (Brief 57)

Château Belingard, Bergerac
Bergerac, 24240 Pomport

Comte Laurent de Bosredon took over this family property in the mid-80s. He had, and has, one target in mind: to raise the quality of, and the consumer interest for, the two appellations Bergerac and Monbazillac. He started practicing the methods developed by the oenologist Denis Dubordieu, researcher in Bordeaux. For example, a few hours skin contact for the white wines and some oak aging on the lees for both the reds and the whites. Or the importance of measuring the phenolic ripeness of the grapes to be able to decide on the best time to harvest. Chateau Belingard was originally best known for its Monbazillac wines but Laurent’s improvements in winemaking and quality have given the dry white wines a more prominent place: fresh, apply, with no or very little oak for Chateau Belingard (“tout court”) or the oak aged Blanche de Bosredon, named after Laurent’s grandmother. And the reds should not be forgotten either! (Brief 43)

- -  Northern Rhône  - -

Domaine Philippe et Vincent Jaboulet, Mercurol

After 30 years as responsible for the wine production at the famous Rhône producer Paul Jaboulet Aîné in Tain l’Hermitage Philippe Jaboulet, together with his son Vincent, started off on his own and created Domaine Philippe et Vincent Jaboulet in Mercurol three kilometres to the south. Vincent is a trained oenologist and has worked in Australia. He’s the fifth generation of the Jaboulet family making wine. They make a Crozes-Hermitage (both red and white), a red Hermitage and a Cornas. The wines are consistently good. (Brief 70, May-09)

Domaine Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage
Les Chênes Verts, 26600 Pont de l'Isere, 04 75 84 67 52

Do you like the really character-full, almost caricature style of Syrah – smoky, tarry, charcuteri, freshly ground pepper…? Then you should definitely try the Crozes-hermitage from Alain Graillot. Fabulous wines for Syrah addicts. Alain was part of the revival of the Crozes district some 20 years ago and has since inspired many younger winemakers to move up the quality scale. (Brief 56)

Domaine Vincent Paris, Cornas
Chemin des Peyrouses 07130 Cornas, ph 04 75 40 13 04

Vincent Paris made his first wine in 1997 and was soon mentioned as one of the future young stars in Cornas. Now it is perhaps time to remove future. Vincent’s uncle is the well known producer Robert Michel, maker of some of the finer Cornas wines, so he has some family traditions to build on. He was fortunate to inherit some very old vines, which, together with low yields and a meticulous work in both the vineyard and the winery makes for very full-bodied and concentrated Syrah wines. (Brief 49)

Domain Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage
Les Chassis Sud-Mercurol, Tain l Hermitage, ph +33 809 475 084 328

Gilles Robin made his first vintage of Crozes-Hermitage in 1996. At that time he had to help him his grand father, and when Gilles later created a cuvée prestige he named it after his grandfather: Cuvée Alberic Bouvet. Gilles now has 15 ha in Crozes and a small parcel in Saint Joseph. All Gilles’s wines have a very good expression of the grape variety – Syrah. But he is keen that also the terroirs should be evident in his wines. The best way to do that, he says, is to grow your vines organically, so, no chemical pesticides, and only natural fertilizers. Harvesting is manual. His red Crozes-Hermitage, Le Papillon, comes from a five hectare plot with young vines that he has planted himself. It is peppery and fruity (blackberries, black currants). The 2003 costs 9 euro at the vineyard (if there is still some left). Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Albéric Bouvet is made from old vines, planted by Gilles’s father 45 years ago. The wine has spent 16 months in oak. The bouquet is full of spices – cinnamon, cloves, pepper, liquorice, and the taste is long with a very expressive Syrah character (14 euro). Gilles also makes a very nice white Crozes from Marsanne and Roussanne grapes. (Brief 40)

Domaine Yves Cuilleron, Condrieu, Rhone
Verlieu, RN 86, 42410 Chavanay, ph 04 74 87 02 37

When Yves Cuilleron made his first wine in 1987 not many people knew of Condrieu or Viognier. “I was part of the young generation that was part of the recreation of the northern Rhône valley as a wine district” he says. Today, Yves is one of the big stars in Condrieu. All his wines are of excellent quality, from an aromatic Viognier Vin de Pays for around 11 euro to his different cuvées of Condrieu (around 30 euro). (Brief 38)
There are more pictures in our photo gallery.

Domaine Pierre Gaillard, Condrieu and Saint-Joseph
42520 Malleval, ph 04 74 87 13 10

A short drive away from the river, uphill along winding roads with breathtaking views you will find Domaine Pierre Gaillard. Pierre started his career at Vidal-Fleury (now owned by Guigal) in Ampuis a short distance away. While at Vidal-Fleury he was planning his own wine growing business, bought some land and planted some vines. In 1987 he made his first Saint-Joseph. His property has now reached 20 hectares including Saint-Joseph, Condrieu, Côte Rôtie and Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes. Certainly one of the best wine estates in the region both for red and white wines.
(Brief 30)

André Perret
17, route national 86, Verlieu, 42410 Chavanay.

One of the most interesting growers today in Saint-Joseph and Condrieu. And apparently it is not much of a secret anymore! He rapidly sells all his wines but if you are lucky you can find them in shops in e.g. Paris (Lavinia*, Les Caves Legrand*) and Brussels (ROB*). Try them if you can find them. E.g.: very aromatic Condrieu (~25€); or a powerful and typical syrah from Saint-Joseph (~14€).
(Brief 13)

Domaine Joël et Eric Durand
07130 Châteaubourg, ph 04 75 40 46 78

In the middle of the little village Chateaubourg, just behind the church, in the southern part of the appellation Saint Joseph you find the two brothers Durand – Eric and Joël. They used to sell the grapes to larger producers like Delas and Jaboulet but in the early 1990s they started to bottle their own wine. Now they make fabulous wines from their 12 hectares (7 ha in St Joseph and 5 ha in Cornas). As an example, a Cornas 2003 bought at the domaine costs 23€.

Domaine du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage
26000 Mercurol, tel 04 75 07 44 07

Wines full of character, in particular the cuvée prestige called Gaby. Florent Viale is a master at making wines from the Syrah grape. Until 1992 Florent and his father sold all the wines to a négociant. But at that time they thought that the interest from Crozes-Hermitage had grown so much that they started to make their own wines. Which they do outstandingly well! (Brief 20)

E. Guigal
69420 Ampuis, tel 04 74 56 10 22

If you think of Côte Rôtie it is likely that you think of Guigal. Not surprisingly since they make a third of all Côte Rôtie. And Guigal “père”, Etienne Guigal who died in 1988 is somewhat of a legend in the area. But today Guigal not only makes Côte Rôtie but also wines from all of the Rhône Valley. All the wines keep a very high standard and one very good value wine is their basic Côtes-du-Rhône (6€ at the source). More picture in the photo archive. (Brief 14)

M. Chapoutier
18, avenue Docteur Paul Durand, 26601 Tain l’Hermitage, tel 04 75 08 28 65, www.chapoutier.com.

Chapoutier makes wine all over the Rhône valley and today even further south in France and in Australia, but the home is in Tain l’Hermitage. The company was founded in 1808 and has long been a well respected house. But it reached a new level of excellence when then 25 year old Michel Chapoutier took over at the end of the 1980s. He has turned it into one of the best known and well respected producers in France. He has not only improved the quality of the wines and gone into new regions but also introduced innovative thinking like Braille on the labels and organic principles in the vineyards. They have a very wide spectrum of wines, generally good value for money. Some examples: Rasteau (6.50 euro), Crozes-Hermitage (8.50 euro), Châteauneuf-du-Pape (17 euro), Cornas (21.50 euro), Hermitage (39 euro) and the very high-end sélections parcellaires, e.g. ”Les Granits” Saint Joseph 2001 (40 euro) and “Le Pavillon” Ermitage 2001 (126 euro). (Brief 12)

Domaine de la Cabasse
84110 Séguret, tel 04 90 46 91 12

Domaine de la Cabasse is situated just below the very picturesque village Séguret where you should take a stroll on the old cobble stone streets and look down on the vineyards. Cabasse belongs since 1990 to a Swiss couple, Alfred and Antoinette Haeni. They have renovated the domaine and have opened a charming small hotel and an excellent restaurant. The wines the make are also excellent, for example: the white Pimevères (Séguret) is flowery with a touch of honey (but dry of course – 6.50 euro) and the red Les Deux Anges (Sablet) is well balanced and fruity (5.50 euro) (Brief 12)

Domaine Pierre Coursodon
Saint Joseph

Domaine Jean-Louis Grippa
Saint-Joseph

Domaine Alain Graillot
Crozes-Hermitage

- -  Southern Rhône  - -

Domaine Giraud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
www.domainegiraud.fr

Sister and brother couple Marie and François Giraud took over this property from their father ten years ago and have today 19 hectares. They have great respect for the appellation and the terroir but have also introduced some modern ideas in the wine making. Destemming, for example, which was not systematically done before. Marie says that the stems (la rafle) give the wine a green taste and harsh tannins. Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Gallimardes 2006, with a bouquet of fresh fruit, liquorice, black olives and tapenade, with an intense yet soft mouth feel. A modern-style chateauneuf with lots of fruit and concentration and a very clean style. (Watch our video interview with Marie, in their wine cellar, on BKWine TV.) (Brief 67)

Domaine la Monardière, Vacqueyras, Rhone
www.monardiere.fr

The owner, Christian Vache, is an enthusiastic vigneron passionate about making the best wines from his terroir and from his vineyards. The property covers 20 hectares and has been extensively replanted and renovated since Christian and his wife took over this family domaine in 1987. Excellent quality wines with a lot of typicity from Vacqueyras. (Brief 53)

Château Saint-Cosme, Gigondas
Louis Barruol is owner and wine maker at Château Saint Cosme in Gigondas. He has 15 hectares of old vines that grow on very heterogeneous and complex soil in a cool micro climate. He practices low yields and crafts wines with lots of character and personality. He does not filter and uses sulphur very sparingly. His Gigondas is dominated by Grenache while his Côte du Rhône is made primarily from Syrah.  (Brief 43)

Domaine Fontavin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
www.fontavin.com
Shortly after Hélène Chouvet finished her training as an oenologist, in 1996, she took over the family property Domaine de Fontavin. From her 42 hectares she produces around 80,000 annually, half of which is exported. The main grape is Grenache (70%) with some additions of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Hélène prefers the Grenache that she thinks is well suited to the local climate and the rocky soil in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Fontavin wines often have a warmth and spiciness but maintain a good, refreshing acidity. Goes very well with game and other food with much taste. (Brief 41)

- - Loire - -

Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre
http://www.pascal-jolivet.com/ 

The Domaine Pascal Jolivet winery is just on the edge of the Sancerre village, at the bottom of the hill. He wines are full of character and quite full-bodied compared to many Sancerres. They prove that sauvignon blanc can also make complex terroir wines. The secret, according to the winemaker Jean-Luc Soty, is to do very little débourbage (sedimentation of the must before fermentation). That gives the wine more power and complexity. He also thinks that it is important only to use the natural yeast (that is on the grapes). The sancerres from Pascal Jolivet all have finesse and minerality, good concentration and acidity. Sancerre Les Cailottes Blanc has a lot of terroir character with an underlying elegant and aromatic layer from the sauvignon grape. The Grand Cuvée Pouilly Fumé has grown on soil that is very rich in limestone. It is aged on the lees for nine months and has a touch of mushroom on the nose, lower acidity, more depth and a wonderful, long and intense flavour. They also make some of the best reds in the appellation. (Brief 73, Aug-09)

Montlouis, Loire
There are many, often small, French appellations that are unfortunately far too little known. Sometimes one wonders if the wines wouldn’t be better known (which is important) and easier to sell (even more important) if they used a wider, less precise, but better known appellation. Montlouis is one of those. Have you heard of it? It is a neighbour to Vouvray (a hair’s-breadth better known) in mid-Loire - not big, making only white but ranging from bone-dry to luscious sweet, and including sparkling. All from chenin blanc grapes (one of the most underrated and misunderstood grape varieties) on just 400 ha. The sparkling deserves a special mention due to its originality. Aptly called Pétillant Originel it is made by adding no sugar. That, perhaps, does not sound special, but for sparkling wines it is very unusual: no chaptalisation (sugar added to the must), no liqueur de tirage (sugar added for the second fermentation in bottle), and no liqueur d’expedition (sugar added after dégorgement). Instead they bottle the wine before the fermentation has finished and the bubbles are purely from the natural grapes. Another difference from e.g. champagne is the yield: only 65 hl/ha is permitted (about half of what they do in Champagne). But the most important port of the production are the still whites that, when well done, expresses the wonderful, aromatic, sometimes exotic, sometimes honeyed (even when dry) characters. Providing the grower knows (or dares) to make his wines express the terroir and the grapes. Our favourites are invariably the dry ones. Here are some of the best producers:

Francois Chidaine: Since 10 years he works biodynamically and is one of the leading lights of the appellation. Very fresh and minerally wines, e.g. the Les Choiselle and Le Clos du Breuil (~14€)

Stéphane Cossais: A newcomer to the region, arrived in 2003. (There are several young, new, and ambitious growers here. Land is relatively cheap…) He has only 3 ha. Does some barrel aging of his wines, but that works well with the high acidity. Ha also dares to charge a substantial price for his wines. But they are indeed good. So much better than the others? Try it and decide. E.g Le Volagré or Meuchandelle (both around 20€)

Domaine Levasseur, Alex Mathur: Their dry wine, Les Lumens, is quite full-bodied (barrel fermented and aged for 14 months), more moth filling than most (12€); and excellent sparkling that has a good varietal character (not always the case for sparklers, 12€).

Le Rocher des Violette: Xavier Weisskopf started making Montlousi in 2005 but already makes an excellent, fresh, appely, andminerally wine called La Négrette (13€).

Domaine Frantz Saumon: His Le Clos du Chêne is quite full-bodied, with a ripe-fruit style (ripe, yellow apples) and good finish (23€)

La Taille aux Loups: Jacky Blot is one of the most famous producers in Montlouis. He makes an very good sparkling, called Triple Zéro (0 chaptalisation, 0 liqueur de tirage, 0 liqueur d’expedition – 12€), and a dry Rémus where he harvest in two passes to make sure the grapes have optimal ripeness, giving added concentration. He adds aging on a third new oak barrels giving a substantial wine (12€).

Closerie de Chanteloup: Vincent Guichard’s dry L’Essentiel is well-made (and good value), good structure, minerality, quite light but elegant. (7.50€)

Laurent Chatenay: His Les Maisonnettes has a very good acidity and fruit, very clean flavours with only a minute touch of barrels (9€); Les Hauts de Cangé is much more full-bodied, new oak gives it added body (but actually no oak character) and a touch of residual sugar (11g/l) rounds off the high acidity without making it sweet. Interesting. (Brief 65, Dec-08)

Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur-Champigny, Thierry Germain

Originally from Bordeaux, Thierry Germain arrived in the Loire Valley some 15 years ago (and his father, Bernard Germain, arrived a bit later and bought Chateau de Fesle in Bonnezeaux). Thierry makes a Saumur-Champigny that counts among the best and also most substantial Cabernet Franc wines you can find. There are few others who manage to get so much power and body from this grape. His property includes 20 hectares red and 2 ha white. (Brief 35, May-06)

Bordeaux

Château Villars, Fronsac, Bordeaux
www.chateauvillars.com

Fronsac is not as famous as its illustrious neighbour Pomerol. But it would deserve to be. It is pretty rolling hills landscape, much nicer than the flat land in Pomerol. And the wines from the best chateaux are excellent classic clarets in style. In addition to the quality the have the great advantage of being affordable. Fifteen of the more dynamic properties have created an association that they call Expression Fronsac. Their idea is to market the Fronsac wines internationally with a joint effort. One of the participating chateaux is Château Villars where the charming Thierry Gaudie makes elegant wines. He uses more cabernet franc than what is the norm; a grape that he says is needed and necessary to balance the merlot and to make the wines more interesting. He wants to enhance the expression of terroir in his wines and does not use much new oak. Chateau Villars 2005 has a very good structure with soft tannins. “2005 resembles the legendary 1961” says Thierry. His other cuvée, Charmes de Villars, is easy drinking – the first vintage was 2006. Interestingly he uses American oak for Charmes. (Brief 74, Sep-09)

Château Moulin du Cadet, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux

Another small biodynamic recommendation this month. Classic, quite tannic and structured Bordeaux wines is the hall mark of Pierre Blois at Château Moulin du Cadet in Saint Emilion, just a short walk from the village. He has 5 ha, biodynamic since 2004. “Farming biodynamic means that you really have to be present in the vineyard all the time”, says Pierre. “You spend more hours in the field compared to conventional farming. And you also have to have staff that believe in the methods!” He’s very happy with the results. His vines are healthier and his wines have become more “lively” and with more minerality, he says. Very good wines, of a classic Saint Emilion cut. (Brief 71, June-09)

Château Pey La Tour
Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur, www.dourthe.com

A biggish and well-maintained property with 170 ha of vines in the heart of Entre-deux-Mers. Since 1990 it belongs to the négociant CVBG-Dourthe-Kressman and they have put a substantial 4€M of investments into it. They have increased the planting density, lowered the yields, are monitoring water stress with GPS etc and all has contributed to improving the quality. According to Dourthe, the size of the property means that there are several different soil types and micro climate variations that contribute to the complexity of the wines. The wine is primarily made from Merlot – 82% of the vineyards are planted with that variety. In spite of the large volume, more than 1 million bottles, they maintain a very good quality, starting with the Bordeaux “tout court” for some 4€ to their Bordeaux Supérieur for around 10€. (Brief 60)

Château La Grave Figeac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
1, Cheval blanc Ouest - 33 330 Saint-Emilion - France, Tél. : 05 57 74 11 74 - Fax : 05 57 74 17 18, www.chateau-la-grave-figeac.fr

A small wine property, as is common in Saint Emilion, of only 6 hectares of vines, but one that is moving upwards on the wine quality scale. It is situated strategically between two more famous wine estates: the Chateau Cheval Blanc and the Chateau La Conseillante (Pomerol). Excellent wines. (Brief 56)

Château Saint Christoly, Médoc, Bordeaux
www.chateaustchristoly.com

Since 2002 it is run by the two young sisters Cathy and Sandrine Héraud, sixth generation winemakers in the family who owns this 28 hectare property in northern Médoc. They are both full of enthusiasm but also very focused on what they want to achieve. Cathy makes the wine and Sandrine takes care of marketing and sales. The vineyard is primarily on gravelly and stony soil, just like at the Grand Cru Classé chateaux further south in the Médoc, says Cathy. The wine is classic and well structured with good fruit and balance and have been steadily improving since the sisters took charge. It can certainly pay off to venture all the way up to the northern Médoc where you can find this kind of wines for a mere 10€! (Brief 55)

Château Lestrille, Entre-deux-Mers, Bordeaux Supérieur
www.lestrille.com/

The Roumage family has been making wine in St Germain du Puch since the end of the 19th century and now, for the first time, it is a woman, Estelle, who is in charge. She makes both white red and rosé. The rosé goes under the label ‘clairet’, which is a bordelaise style of rosé with a longer skin contact (12-18 hours) giving a bit more colour and body than a regular rosé. It’s 100% merlot and it’s full of red currant aromas. They also make two red Bordeaux Supérieurs, one red vinified in tank (soft and round tannins with a fresh fruit) and a Cuvée Tradition aged in oak barrels (more full-bodied and powerful with some added complexity). (Brief 55)

Château Belair, Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé

One of the best chateaux in Saint Emilion, now one of the 13 Premier Grand Crus Classés (B). Belair is owned by Pascal Delbec, quite a personality who previously was in charge of Chateau Ausone, a neighbour (classified “(A)”). The vineyard covers 13 hectares, soil is primarily lime stone although it is very varying, giving added complexity. (Brief 42)

Château de Pressac, Saint-Emilion
Jean-François and Dominique Quenin, Saint-Emilion, 33330 Saint Etienne de Lisse, tel 05 57 40 18 02

Many chateaux in Saint-Emilion are very humble abodes and hardly merits the term chateau. For Chateau de Pressac the case is the opposite. The main building is on a hilltop and reminds you of a medieval knight’s castle and it actually dates from the 15th century (at least in parts). Jean-François an Dominique Quenin bought the chateau in 1997 (after a previous life in the corporate world) and started a new life as vignerons. The chateau is surrounded by all of its 30 hectares of vines and the wines are excellent. The chateau may well be included in the new classification for Saint Emilion, that is under preparation, and if it is not it is not due to the quality but to that the Quenins have been there for “only” nine years. (Brief 37)

Vieux Château Gaubert, Graves
33640 Portets, tel. 05 56 67 52 76

Dominique Havelan’s family has been wine growers in Graves for three generations and in 1988 Dominique bought the quite run down Vieux Château Gaubert that he has been renovating and replanting since. His wines, both white and red, received much praise almost from the beginning and today Vieux Chateau Gaubert is one of the safe bets to get a good Graves wine. The property covers a total of 16 hectares. Dominique has put most of his effort into the wines and has only recently started work on the château itself. It dates from the 18th century and does need some renovation.  (Brief 33)

Château Haut-Marbuzet
33180 St Estephe, tel 05 56 59 30 54

Château Haut-Marbuzet in Saint Estephe is, since quite a few years now, one of the top wines in Médoc. When the new Cru Bourgeois classification was done they were one of nine chateaux to be placed in the top category Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. They have a wine style that is round and full-bodied, and very seductive, and it has often given them top ratings. The Duboscq family does not hide their ambition to make a wine that is popular and easy to drink. They create their style by using a high percentage of Merlot (more that 50%), harvesting very ripe grapes, fermenting at relatively high temperatures, and substantial aging in new oak (18 months). The 2003 is already very drinkable, has a high alcohol (very warm year!) and well balanced tannins with quite low acidity. The 2001 is a classic Haut-Marbuzet, according to Hugues Duboscq: full-bodied and smooth with some chocolate and lots of fruit and berries. (Brief 28)

Château de Haux
Première Côte de Bordeaux, 33550 Haux, tel 05 57 34 51 10

Flemming and Peter Jørgensen bought Chateau de Haux in 1985. The vineyard was in poor shape and the chateau itself was in ruins. They were in for plenty of work to put things in order. And now both the red and the white wines are among the best in the district. To finance the development they founded a company where wine enthusiasts can buy shares and get a return in wine and also get the opportunity to stay at the chateau. www.haux.com (Brief 25)

Château Thieuley
33670 La Sauve-Majeure, tel 05 56 23 00 01

Chateau Thieuley has long been a favourite of ours among the not-so-expensive Bordeaux wines – both the red and the white wines. The chateau is close to La Sauve Majeure, in the centre of Entre-deux-Mers. Francis Courcelle, an expert in making excellent white wines, brought this domain from obscurity to well earned fame. Now it is primarily run by his daughters Sylvie and Marie. In France you can buy them at e.g. Monoprix. (Brief 25)

Château Desmirail
33420 Cantenac

One of the best value-for-money Grand Cru Classé château in Médoc. This 3e Cru in Margaux is one of 11 estates owned by Lucien Lurton and his family. The 30 hectares of Château Desmirail are managed by Denis Lurton (picture - click it). His latest acquisition is 10 oak barriques made from American oak. You can find the 2001 at Auchan in France for 14.95€ and that is not much money for a classic Bordeaux, admittedly fairly light weight but with very nice classic cedar wood and black currant character and some vanilla in the finish. A bit young but already quite enjoyable. (Brief 8)

Château Faugères
Saint-Emilion

The border between Côtes-de-Castillon and St Emilion goes right across the vineyards of Château Faugères. Therefore 28 ha of this 60 ha property are AOC Côtes-de-Castillon and sold under the name Cap de Faugères and the remaining 32 ha are in St Emilion. Both wines are very good, with a distinct mark of new oak barrels, a spiciness and a touch 'fiery'. In spite of it being in reality one vineyard the differences of the soil make the two wines very different, according to the oenologist Alain Dourthe (picture - click it): "the Saint Emilion is much more complex". And, I can add, twice the price of the Castillon wine. The latest investment is a second 'table de tri', a sorting table where they sort and remove even single poor quality grapes at the harvest after destemming the bunches. (Brief 8)

Château Fourcas-Dupré
Listrac, Bordeaux

You can still find some good value Bordeaux wines! Château Fourcas-Dupré in Listrac has made a very good 2000. You can find it at Systembolaget (in Sweden) for the modest sum of 158 kr (~16€), released in June, ref 4278 (contact them on their web site to find stockists elsewhere). It is a classic Médoc with black currant, freshly roasted coffee, some good tannins and quite a lot of body. The 46 ha chateau is owned by the Pagès family. It is planted with 44 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 44 % Merlot, 10 % Cab F and 2 % Petit Verdot. www.chateaufourcasdupre.com (Brief 2)

Château La Tour de By
Médoc, 05 56 41 50 03

A domain with 74 ha not far from the Gironde, almost as far north as you can get on the Médoc peninsula. The old tower, a ‘retired’ light house, is in the middle of all the vines. The wines have a lot of fruit and only a very discrete oakiness (only a fifth of the barrels are renewed every year). Lately, 1999 and 2000 were very good and can be drunk now or put down for another 4-5 years. Contact the chateau for availability in France (05 56 41 50 03, la.tour.de.by@wanadoo.fr). Available in Sweden at Systembolaget: nr 3209, nr 3209 (1999). In the UK e.g. at Wine&Co and Berry Brothers and Rudd. (Brief 3)

Château de Chantegrive
Graves

Chantegrive produces well made and good value for money wines, both white and red, in Podensac in the Graves AC. It is a big property, maybe even the biggest in the Graves, covering 92 ha. It is owned and managed impeccably by the family Lévêque. The red base-cuvée is quite light and fruity, while Cuvée Edouard is more full bodied and a bit oaked. The white Cuvée Caroline is a favourite of ours among white Bordeaux wines (11.95 euro at Cave Auchan in Coignières (Yvelines). (click the picture) (Brief 4)

Château Haut Bertinerie
Premières Côtes de Blaye, Bordeaux

Château Haut-Bertinerie is the leading estate in Premières Côtes de Blaye, just east of Médoc on the other side of the estuary Gironde. The red wines are made from old Merlot (65%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) vines. It is full bodied with some spiciness and what the French call ‘torrefacion’ (the slightly burned aroma from roasting coffee) and with good fruit. The white is also good, fresh with just a touch of wood. The chateau was bought in 1961 by Daniel Bantegnies and is run today by his two sons Eric and Frantz, both oenologists.

Château Paloumey
Haut-Médoc, 33290 Ludon-Médoc

Martine Cazeneuve bought this château in 1990. It is located in the very south of the Médoc and even if it was classified a Cru Bourgeois in 1932 it had completely stopped producing wine by the time of the Second World War. So Martine started a big revival, with planting new vines, renovating the buildings etc. The fruit of the labour was reaped this summer when Paloumey was, again, classified as Cru Bourgeois Supérieur when the new classification was announced. In addition to Paloumey she also owns and runs two smaller chateaux close by: Chateau La Bessane in Margaux, and Chateau La Garricq in Moulis-en-Médoc. Both chateaux have a very unusual mix of grapes: they have a large portion Petit Verdot. PV is an otherwise unusual Bordeaux grape but at La Bessane it is used up to 60% in the wine. Petit Verdot must be harvested very ripe, and when it is it contributes both good body, colour and tannins to the wine. Many producers don’t like it because of this need to be very ripe. (click the pictures) (Brief 6)

- -  Champagne  - -

Champagne Turgy, Mesnil-sur-Oger
www.champagne-turgy.com

Catherine and Jean-Michel Turgy have 6 ha, all planted with chardonnay. The property is in the small village Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the middle of the Côte des Blancs district, known for its high quality chardonnay grapes. It was founded in 1881 and Jean-Michel took over after his father Michel some 15 years ago. Jean-Michel pays a lot of attention to detail, both in the vineyard and in the winery. The style is creamy and quite full-bodied champagnes with very little dosage (sugar). Try his Brut for example, an excellent and affordable champagne. (Brief 77, Dec-09)

Champagne Fleury, Champagne
www.champagne-fleury.fr

It is far between the organic or biodynamic growers in Champagne, but if you look closely you will find a few. Champagne Fleury in Côte des Bars in the southern part of Champagne is one of them. They started “converting” their vineyards to ecologic farming already in 1989 and in 1992 the whole property became biodynamic. “It’s not a problem, even with our cold climate”, says Morzane Fleury, “you just have to be attentive all the time”. Their Brut Sans Année is made from 100% pinot noir and feels classic and fresh. Fleury Fleur de l’Europe has good concentration and elegance. The vintage Fleury 2000 is very good, classic, dry and mineral, with quite a lot of refreshing acidity. If you like really dust-dry champagnes you should try their Extra Brut 1995: they blocked the malolactic fermentation and kept it 12 year before disgorging.  (Brief 77, Dec-09)

Champagne Philippe Gamet, Mardeuil
http://www.champagne-gamet.com/

A family property that is run by the husband-wife couple Fabienne and Philippe Gamet. They have 8.6 hectares of vines around Epernay. Brut Séléction can be had for 12.50€ at the winery. It is made from pinot meunier and pinot noir. They only use the cuvee (the first pressing) for the wine. It is mouth filling with lots of flavours, aromas of citrus and apple and with a youthful style. Very good value. Cuvée 5000 has had a bit more aging before being recorked (dégorgement) and has a classic style of toast and flowers. Millésimé 2004 has very good concentration and body with aromas of grapefruit and an excellent acidity. (Brief 67)

Champagne Mailly Grand Cru, Champagne
http://www.champagne-mailly.com/

Life is such (or is it business?) that cooperatives often have difficulties aiming for top quality. The small cooperative Champagne Mailly, based in the Grand Cru village Mailly of course, is one that succeeds in its aim to make quality wines. They were founded in 1929 and dominates the production in the village, located just a bit south of Reims in the Montagne de Reims. They make wine from 70 hectares, all classified as Grand Cru grapes (even the chardonnay, which is in a minority here). If you are planning for a New Year’s dinner you could try their vintage Mailly Grand Cru 1998 for the main course (yes, why not?). Pinot noir is the dominant grape, giving a lot of body and a touch of chocolate, but keeping a very fresh acidity. Would go well with a pink breast of duck with a red wine and balsamic vinegar sauce. (Don’t forget to send me an invitation…) (Brief 65, Dec-08)

Champagne Duval-Leroy
 69, avenue de Bammental, Vertus, Tel : 00 33 3 26 52 37 24, www.duval-leroy.com

The very dynamic Carol Duval-Leroy from Belgium found herself at the head of this family company in 1991 when her husband died. She has successfully marketed her champagne ever since, often targeting female consumers. As an example, she has created a cuvée prestige called “Femme” and launched a series of gift items on a champagne theme specially targeting women. But she has also modernised and improved the production. You find Duval-Leroy in Vertus, in the southern Côte des Blancs. They have extensive (for Champagne) land holdings, 170 ha, but this accounts for only a quarter of their production. (Brief 40)

Champagne Jacquesson & Fils
Jean-Hervé Chiquet, 68, rue du Colonel Fabien, 51200 Dizy, ph 03 26 55 68 11

These are interesting and very well made champagnes partially fermented in oak (unusual for a champagne) and without filtering. Jacquesson is a very dry champagne, all are ‘ultra-brut’ which means a ‘dosage’ of less than 6 grams of sugar per litre. ‘Cuvée no 728 Brut’, the ‘standard’ champagne (if you can call it that) is sold for 28€ at Lavinia and elsewhere. The Avize Grand Cru 1995 (40€) is a full bodied blanc-de-blanc with aromas of toast and bread, green apples, and a fresh, elegant acidity. Jean-Hervé Chiquet says it is perfect to parmesan cheese. I have yet to try the combination... (click the pictures) (Brief 6)

André Jacquart & Fils
Mesnil-sur-Oger, 23, rue des Zalieux, 51190 Mesnil-sur-Oger, 03 26 57 52 29

André Jacquart & Fils in Mesnil-sur-Oger in the center of the Côte des Blancs makes very good value-for-money champagnes. Try their blanc de blancs (made only from Chardonnay) Cuvée Spéciale Brut for 13.15€ at the domain – une vraie trouvaille! A Jacquard in Mesnil owns 18 ha of vineyards but don’t mistake him for the cooperative Jacquart in Reims! (Click on the picture for more photos.)
(Brief 7)

Champagne Bonnaire
120, rue d’Epernay, 51530 Cramant, tel 03 26 57 50 85

Another producer worth discovering in the Côte des Blans is Champagne Bonnaire in the small village of Cramant. They like to experiment and have a cuvée called ‘Variance’ aged eight months in oak before bottling (22€). It has a slight touch of vanilla from the oak which is very unusual for a champagne. My favourite is the Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru for 16€ - an elegant wine well suited for aperitif, very fresh. (Click the picture for more photos.) (Brief 7)

Champagne Philipponnat
51160 Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, 03 26 56 93 00.

Champagne Philipponnat is a small “house” (as opposed to individual grower) just outside of Aÿ (Charles Philipponnat on the photo). They make 500,000 bottles per year. Their most famous champagne is the Clos des Goisses from a single vineyard of about 5 ha on one of the regions best locations: a steep, south facing slope overlooking the Marne. It is dominated by Pinot Noir giving it wonderful aromas (roses, incense,…) but is not cheap (68€). Less expensive but also very good is their Royal Réserve Brut, a blend of half white grapes and half red grapes, giving it a nice fresh character (apple, citrus) – 19€. (Click the picture to the top right for more photos, e.g. how you manually do a ‘dégorgement’.) (Brief 7)

- -  Bourgogne  - -

Domaine Courtault, Chablis
www.chablis-courtault.com

Jean-Claude Courtault came from the Loire Valley to Chablis in 1974 to work as vineyard manager at a winery in Lignorelles. In 1984 he started to buy his own land and in 1987 he launched his first vintage. Now Jean-Claude has 20 hectares and he has almost handed over to his daughter Stéphanie and her husband Vincent Michelet. Half of their production is ‘petit chablis’. “We make a good quality petit Chablis because we really make an effort. We’re one of the few who really care about making a high quality petit Chablis”, says Stéphanie as we taste her 2008. It is very fresh, with citrus aromas, refreshing acidity and hints of apple. A domaine well worth keeping an eye on. (Brief 79, Feb-10)

Domaine Marronniers, Chablis
tel 03 86 41 42 70

We find Domaine Marronniers in the small village of Préhy, a short drive from Chablis itself. There Bernard Legland and his wife welcome you for a wine tasting of a range of Chablis wines. The domaine has some 20 ha of vineyards: petit Chablis, Chablis, and Chablis premier cru. Bernard is fond of the crispy, clean style of Chablis so none of his wines are aged in oak. “Why would we want to hide what we get from our soil?” he asks. In his view, Chablis has a unique soil, that makes Chablis a true vin de terroir, with a steeliness and minerality that resembles no other. If you don’t believe him, try his very drinkable, crispy Petit Chablis 2008 (6.5€ at the cellar door) or the Chablis 2007 with very refreshing aromas of citrus fruit and a nice minerality. Very good. If you are looking for something a bit more complex you can try the 1er Cru Montmains 2007 (11.50€), still a bit reserved but with very good development potential. Or a Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2005 (9€) already with a bit of maturity and a nice, honeyed character.  (Brief 76, Nov-09)

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune
www.louisjadot.com

Jadot is a big négociant who makes wine from many different appellations in Bourgogne, from Chablis down to Beaujolais. The main office and winery is in Beaune at the centre of the Côte d’Or. But although they are big their way of making wine is more like a smaller producer giving high quality wines. Since a few years back they are working according to organic principles in the vineyards and each plot (lieu-dit), each premier cru, and grand cru are kept separate and fermented and vinified separately. Very well made wines ranging from ‘simple’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir to various Grand Crus. They also have an excellent Beaujolais from a beautiful chateau property, the Chateau de Jacque from Moulin-à-Vent. (Brief 55)

Uruguay

Bodega Pisano, Progreso, Uruguay
www.pisanowines.com

Uruguay is a comparatively small country in South America with many small family run vineyards and a climate that is similar to that of Bordeaux. There are many interesting wine producers in the country and one of them is the Pisano family, a family that seems to be producing only male – very charming – offspring (“it’s the red wine, you know”). Today the winery is run by three brothers: Daniel takes care of sales, marketing and exports. Gustavo is the winemaker, and Eduardo takes care of the vineyards. Between them they have eight sons (!) and all want to work in wine. It was grandfather Pisano who created the vineyard in 1914. He came from Liguria and his wife came from the Basque region – quite a common background with Uruguay winemakers. Try their Rio de los Pajaros Reserve Tannat Merlot for example, or any of their other cuvées. (Brief 38)
There are more pictures in our photo gallery.

Germany

Weingut Manderschied
www.weingut-manderschied.de

Young Martin Manderscheid owns 15 hectares in Pfalz (Palatinate) in Germany. He took over the property from his father three years ago. 60% of the production is white wines, the rest is red and rosé. We’ve had the opportunity to taste three of Martin’s wines and were duly impressed. Grauburgunder 2005 Spätlese Trocken is a very good, aromatic wine, quite full-bodied with a nice fresh acidity. A completely dry wine with only 2.3 gram of residual sugar (4.6 euro from the property). The red Dornfelder Trocken 2004 has lots of red fruits and berries and is quaffable – quite a dark colour with a touch of spiciness (3.9 euro). This seems to be a property with a bright future. Prices are very reasonable. If you drive through Germany this summer Weingut Manderscheid is certainly worth a stop. (Brief 46)

Portugal

Quinta da Gaivosa, Cumieira, Douro Valley
Domingos Alva de Sousa and his son have made it their speciality to make DOC Douro wines (”table” wines as opposed to port wine) in the dramatic port wine valley. The family owns 110 hectares split over five properties. The secret of the wines magnificent quality are actually the old wines (apart from very competent wine making of course), some more than a hundred years old. (Brief 70, May-09)

Quinta do Mouro, Estremoz, Alentejo
Miguel Louro, who also works as a dentist in Evora (and looks a bit like Salvador Dalí), and his sun Luis run this high quality winery owning 30 ha in Alentejo. “Our wines are hand crafted wines”, says Miguel, “all is done by hand. The secret with excellent wines is that you have ripe grapes and low yields”. The wines are classic Portuguese with some herbs and a wonderful fruit. (Brief 70, May-09)

Monte de Penha, Portalegre, Alentejo, Portugal
www.montedapenha.com

To the north in Alentejo you can find Monte de Penha. Francisco and Veronica Fina made their first vintage in 1999. The winery is not far from the town of Portalegre, 100 km from the famous city of Evora. The region is mountainous and the vineyards are at high altitude on granite soil. The climate is a bit cooler than the rest of Alentejo. Monte de Penha use traditional regional grape varieties. “Why would we use grape verities that everyone else has?” as Francisco puts it. One of my favourites is Monte de Penha Reserva made from trincadeira, aragoñes and alicante bouschet. Their 2002 has wonderful fruit, very good structure and pronounced but smooth tannins. Long and elegant. (Brief 68, March 09)

Bacalhôa Vinhos de Portugal, Alentejo
www.bacalhoa.com

This is one of the biggest wine producers in Portugal, with head quarters on the Setúbal peninsula south of Lisbon. On the edge of the small town Azeitão they have a big winery. In addition to the wine production facility they have one of Portugal’s finest collection of azulejos (ceramic tiles) dating back to the 16th century. Bacalhôa is well known for its excellent Moscatel de Setúbal, a sweet wine made from the very aromatic muscat grape. It is concentrated with hints of orange marmalade, dried fruit and nuts with an excellent balance between the sweetness and the acidity. But they also make very good reds, for example Meia Pipa and the cabernet sauvignon-based Quinta da Bacalhôa. Their whit Loridos made from alvarinho grapes is very nice with citrus character and good minerality. (Brief 66, Jan-09)

Herdade da Malhadinha Nova, Beja – Alentejo, Portugal
www.malhadinhanova.pt

2003 was the first vintage for the Soares family and it has been a running start. The two brothers, João and Paulo has in a few years developed the winery into one of the most dynamic and exciting in Alentejo. With organic farming and green harvest in June or July (removing sometimes 40% of the grapes) they produce excellent grapes. In 2003 they opened the super-modern winery, built in a slope so that minimal pumping of the must is needed. They have 8 lagares – open troughs to crush the wines by (real) feet. But they don’t stop at the wine. The Soares family wants to give the visitor more than that: they have a restaurant at the property (serving food made from crop and animals from their own farm. Wonderful black pig dry cured ham!) and are opening a hotel this year: Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Country & Spa. (Briefen 50)

Italy

Braida, Rocchetta Tanaro, Asti
www.braida.it

In Monferrato, in the hills east of Asti, we find Braida, a winery belonging to the Bologna family. Today it’s the third generation Bolognas who manages the winery, Raffaella and Guiseppe, both with an oenology education. They are assisted by Norbert Reinisch, an Austrian doctor, married to Raffaella. The Bologna family were perhaps the first to realise the potential of the barbera grape variety. In 1982 they launched their first vintage of Bricco dell’Uccellone, made from 100% barbera, aged in small French 225 litre barrels for 15 months. No one had made something like that before and people didn’t think it was a barbera. Bricco dell’Uccellone 2006 is a powerful, full-bodied wine with a dense structure and good fruit, not hidden behind the discrete oak aging (~35-40€). Some other delicious wines from Braida@ the white Il Fiore and the red Il Bacialè, a Monferrato Rosso made from barbera, pinot nero and a touch of cabernet sauvignon and merlot (~11-14€). Their top wine is Ai Suma, made from grapes harvested later, very concentrated and extracted, an almost overwhelming wine with close to 16% alcohol. Will survive a well chosen strong cheese… (Brief 78, Jan-10)

Colombaia, DOCG Chianti Colli Senesi
www.colombaia.it

It’s a small property of only 4 hectares that has recently converted to biodynamic farming. They will have completed their Demeter certification next year. The production is artisan, they avoid adding any substances and in the vineyard they have a horse instead of a tractor. The wines are very interesting and expressive. Colombaia Bianco Toscano IGT is made from malvasia and trebbiano and has a good body. The reds are mostly from sangiovese and are typical Chianti wines with good structure, some tobacco and solid acidity and some fruit. Definitely food wines rather than parlour wines. (Brief 71, June-09)

Austria

Weingut Erich Machherndl, Wachau, Austria
www.machherndl.com

Erich Machherndl in Weissenkirchen in der Wachau is a master of the Austrian grape variety grüner veltliner. A good example is his Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2008, with a high acidity, very clean and crisp style. “That’s exactly how I want it” says Erich. He started working in the vineyard with his father in 1997. Now it is mostly Erich who runs the business, and thus gets the glory. He has 8 hectares and makes a wide range of different wines, not only the GV. He also makes excellent pinot blanc and chardonnay. The pinot blancs are of high quality, full of character, not what you would expect from this otherwise rather anonymous grape. The Pinot Blanc 2000 is outstanding with an intense flavour, with touches of oily honey (if that sounds strange, it’s not!) notes and a god minerality. His chardonnay is made in two variants: with and without oak. My favourite is his Chardonnay Mal Anders, full-bodied with a high acidity, not unlike a chablis. (Brief 79, Feb-10)

Weingut Franz Leth, Fals am Wagram, Austria
www.weingut-leth.at

Wagram is an Austrian wine region a short distance west of Vienna totalling 2500 ha. The make primarily white wines and grüner veltliner accounts for 55% of the production. Winemaker Franz Leth also makes predominantly white wines but has expanded his production of reds recently. Try for instance his Grüner Veltliner Brunnthal 2008 (~12€), a wine with complexity with citrus flavours and ripe tropical fruit. It has a good and fresh acidity and in spite of the alcohol level reaching 13.5% it is well balanced. Another fantastic gruner veltliner that we tried is the Scheiben 2006. Franz suggests keeping if for 20 years or more… The Blauer Zweigelt Gigama 2006 (~22 euro) is proof that the red wines have a bright future. It is intense, spicy, with flavours of dark cherries and some oak. It has been aged for 24 months on barriques. Also a wine that definitely will improve with some aging. (Brief 78, Jan-10)

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